Tag Archives: Derwent Bridge

Recapping the walk along the Derwent River

 

I lived the walk along the Derwent with a vital obsession but, after so many months intensely engaged on other projects, now some of the details are vague. To re-immerse myself into the experience, I am writing this post.

In addition, I suspect it will be a great help to people who have become followers of my blog during the past 6 months.  Despite my inactivity, it surprises me how many visitors and views the blog gets daily, how many different posts are read, and how many different countries around the world are represented.

In August 2014, from an impulsive unplanned idea, I took a bus to a spot near the mouth of the Derwent River on the eastern shore, walked to the sea then retraced my steps and began the walk towards the source of this great river approximately 214kms inland.  On day trips, and around other life commitments, I walked in stages along the eastern shore until I reached the Bridgewater Bridge which crosses the Derwent approximately 43 kms upstream.

Instead of continuing inland, I crossed the bridge and headed back on the western shore towards the southernmost  mouth of the River.  Most of the walks along the eastern and western shores between the sea and the Bridgewater Bridge were along designated pathways, although some informal track walking, road walking and beach walking was required during my trips.

Then I returned to the Bridgewater Bridge and began the journey inland expecting only to walk on the side of the river that made passage easiest.  I had no intention to walk both sides from this point onwards in anticipation the landscape would be inaccessible for a number of reasons or particularly wild with dense and difficult forests. I walked to New Norfolk on the western/southern side of the Derwent but from then on, I switched from side to side. Using maps I determined where I must take up each new stage of a walk while switching from side to side, so that I could say I had traipsed the entire length of the Derwent River.

The farthest inland stages of my walk are easily defined.  I walked from near the township of Tarraleah besides Canal 1 (along which is transported Derwent River water) above the actual River bed, past Clark Dam, and around majestic Lake King William to the township of Derwent Bridge.  From there I followed the river to its source at St Clair Lagoon dam.  In case some people believe the source of the Derwent is further inland, I walked onwards to the weir where the Derwent Basin empties into the St Clair Lagoon via passing the southern end of Lake St Clair.

Between New Norfolk and the area near  Tarraleah, my walk beside the River was in country near  townships (some of which were located at a great distance from the River) such as Bushy Park, Gretna, Hamilton, Ouse, and Wayatinah.  This necessitated additional travel to or from the highway and roads, on which these towns exist, to reach the river or to return home from a walk along the river.

Inland, the water of the Derwent River is controlled by dams constructed to create hydro-electricity for Tasmania: I walked past them all. From the end of the river closest to the mouth, these are the Meadowbank, Cluny, Repulse, Catagunya, Wayatinah, Clark and St Clair Lagoon dams.  Each of these has a bank of water behind them:  Meadowbank Lake, Cluny Lagoon, Lake Repulse, Lake Catagunya, Wayatinah Lagoon, Lake King William and St Clair Lagoon.  Most of these dams and bodies of water has a power station: Meadowbank Power Station, Cluny Power Station, Repulse Power Station, Catagunya Power Station, Wayatinah Power Station and Butlers Gorge Power Station.  I was privileged to be shown around one of these power stations during one walk.

Water from the Derwent passes through two other power stations:  Nieterana mini hydro and the Liapootah Power Station.  I did not follow the trail of these Derwent River managed flows.  The water from other locations inland passes through the Lake Echo Power station and Tungatinah Power Station then flows into the Derwent after power generation, thereby increasing the volume of water flowing downstream.  I did not walk along these feeder rivers.

The few stages of the walks which have not been recorded in this blog, are in all the zone between Gretna and the area near Tarraleah – a stretch of perhaps  120 km.  I have written up and posted most of the walks in this zone, and now it’s time to add the missing sections.

The Derwent River at Derwent Bridge

Having enjoyed showers, easy cups of tea and a comfortable bed, I woke early and was walking before 7am. It was cool so I wore a hat and jacket.  I noted the evidence of cold winters when snow lies on the ground and sometimes blocks the highway.

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If you want to buy land in Derwent Bridge, a package of 3 lots is for sale.

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Signage on the Lyell Highway is clear.

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In the early light of day, the Derwent River glowed. The water was warmer than the air temperature causing a draft of steamy fog to float above the water.

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Derwent Bridge

Located 174 kms west of Hobart on the Lyell Highway, the town of Derwent Bridge extends about a kilometre from one end to the other and contains a scattering of private houses and a handful of small businesses. This tiny township takes its name from the bridge in its midst which crosses the Derwent River.  Lake St Clair sits to the north and Lake King William to the south.

I love writing Trip Advisor reviews (as Crocodillus) and after returning to Hobart from Derwent Bridge I wrote four: my accommodation at the Derwent Bridge Cabins, the food experience I enjoyed at Hungry Wombat Café , the Derwent Bridge Hotel, and the Wall in the Wilderness .  A description of these is not particularly relevant to this blog so, if you are interested, I have provided the links to my reviews with a few photographs.  I am happy to answer any email enquiries if you are considering visiting Derwent Bridge.

I stayed in Derwent Bridge for two nights (buses to Hobart do not travel every day) and every chat, communication, look that I experienced with another person was full of positive energy, good will, happiness, and this made the time pass so easily.  It did not matter whether I was connecting with the Cabin owner or her cleaner, the bar and meal staff at the Hotel, the wait staff at the café, or the owner and others at the Wall in the Wilderness, everyone was upbeat and the services the businesses provided were excellent.

In addition, I met many interstate and overseas travellers, almost all of them walkers who had been journeying either on the Overland Track from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair, or had been walking some of the day or longer walks in the vicinity of Lake St Clair.  The effect of continuing kind weather on walkers, the fact that their walks had introduced them to environments which they found profoundly beautiful, and their plans for future walks and discoveries were the catalyst for everyone to buzz with vitality. Infectious.

Showing me the way to go

Through the bush near the town ship of Derwent Bridge, many tracks criss-cross the landscape and I can see that some might get lost – and the maps do not show all tracks. However, no walker should have a problem if s/he remembers that going downhill will either bring him or her out onto the Derwent River or onto the Lyell Highway.

Nevertheless, when I came across a series of stones arranged into an arrow pointing along one track, I chose to believe it was the best track to take.

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Of course it was a risk to trust the arrow, because the stones could have been arranged for other purposes rather than to get someone to the town of Derwent Bridge by the shortest route.  I was pleased that sometime later, the Lyell Highway was in front of me albeit with a padlocked gate between us.  When I walked onto the road and looked back, this is what I saw.

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That was the first and only sign between Clark Dam and the southern end of Lake King William and this gate that indicated I was walking on private land which I should not be on.  Too late!  I have arrived.

The Derwent River was not far away. It is located between the gate and the Derwent Bridge Hotel 250 metres westwards.

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I was elated because I arrived in Derwent Bridge a day earlier than I expected.  A lovely surprise.

The marks of man

Lake King William, the electricity transmission lines and their towers, the cleared but regrowing areas surrounding them, and the nearby 4WD vehicle tracks changed the landscape from its original form and I spotted other signs of non-aboriginal intervention in the bush.

As I was closing in on civilisation again, while nearing the town ship of Derwent Bridge, I noticed a felled log beside the track with saw marks.  What struck me as strange was the way more than one straight length of timber had been sawn from within the tree trunk.

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Not a letterbox

When walking through the bush from time to time you see tree stumps with a horizontal man-made slit.  These were not letter boxes for use by the old European settlers.  Rather they were part of the process to fell huge ancient trees. Where I was walking, the trees would have been felled to clear a path for the electrical transmission power lines and the 4WD track.

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These notches were made in the days when strong men wielded axes with accuracy and extraordinary bush knowledge. This was before chain saws: the massive girth of many trees would have rendered such equipment useless. In addition, such tree clearings were in an area too remote for massive machinery to access, even if it had existed.

At its simplest, the process can be described as: first the axeman cuts a small slit in the tree trunk then jams a board into the gap.  He (and I have never heard of a woman doing this) jumps up onto that board. Then he creates a new slit higher up the tree, grabs a second board and jams that into the new slit.  He jumps up onto the second board and releases the first board, rests it across the one on which he stands, and then he cuts another slit higher up. The process is repeated until he is sufficiently high to start cutting a 45 degree notch which will help the tree fall in a certain direction.  After a while, the axeman descends and repeats the process up the same tree from another angle, then continues on cutting the notch until the top part of the tree sends signs that it will fall. At this point, in order to stay alive, he jumps down the tree as quickly as he can and moves a distance away being careful not to be struck by any other vegetation or tree than is inadvertently brought down at an unexpected angle.

From this practice has grown the international sport of wood chopping which includes a competition on tree felling.  The image below from the Queensland Archive shows how this looks in the sporting arena.

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Did you know the first wood chopping competitions were held on the north-west coast of Tasmania (not far from where I was born)? These days the competitions have become an international event.  To see how it all works in practice, at least in competitions, I suggest you have a look at a local competition in Canada on You Tube

Snakes alive

In recent walks (Nearing Derwent Bridge from Lake King William, and between the Florentine River and Wayatinah), I have been surprised to see two examples of one of Tasmania’s venomous snakes the White Lipped Snake, also known as the Whip Snake.  What I saw was a delicate slender olive greenish brown snake with soft looking velvety skin.  You can refer to the Department of Primary Industries, Parks, Water and Environment’s site for more information.

The first snake was close to a metre in length and calmly meandered across the stony track, about a metre in front of me, as I descended towards the town of Derwent Bridge. The second snake was just under half a metre in length and was lying on the gravel road in the greenish shade – something made me look down and I realised I was only a couple of steps from standing on it. Naturally I stopped, apologised for my intrusion, stepped away to the other side of the road, and the snake in its own good time, calmly and slowly slid off into the bush away from me.

The length of my snakes is greater than that which the above government website suggests for the standard length. Mine were very slim but long.

These experiences have now made me doubt a ‘fact’ which I had always believed.  The ‘fact’ is that snakes feel the vibration through the ground of something coming towards them and then disappear because they are fundamentally shy and do not seek confrontation. The website listed above suggests the Whip Snake is shy but my experience is at odds with their information.

A chat with another walker recently reminded me that wearing gaiters is a protection against snake bite on the lower legs.  I had forgotten that important use – I was only thinking of wearing them in muddy conditions.  If you don’t know what they look like, then the Paddy Palin website, for example, show a range of gaiter styles.

Rise and shine

At 6 am, my day started with soft clouds. And it was cool; just perfect for walking.  It was only later, around midday, that I removed my jacket.  Each of the sky, the water of Lake King William and the air seemed silvery. Perhaps I was influenced by the beautiful soft grey colours of the driftwood and dead trees. Serenity.

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Before departing my camp site, I filled my water bladders with Lake water. Later, when staying in Cabin accommodation at the town ship of Derwent Bridge, I poured some water into a sparkling clean glass.  I was surprised. The water was crystal clear.  No sediment. No wriggling larvae.  As I thought; this was pure water.  Marvellous!

Time sped fast while I slowed down. It was 7.30 am before I started walking.

It wasn’t long before Mount Charles stood ahead to the north. I knew I needed to find a way to walk around its left-hand side.

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The night before, from the rocky shore I could see Charles. In the photo below, at some distance to the left of the Mount I picked out a U shaped cut in the landscape.  From the map, I knew the electricity transmission line pathway passed through that gap.

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I expected to walk in the regrowth up that hill. In a direct line, approximately 2kms separated my camping site from the foot of that hill. Between the two locations the map indicated a swampy area.  Google Maps show a water-filled bay. No crossing tracks are evident.

What Google Maps show:

Google map of swampy area

What I saw from the south eastern end:

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What I saw from the north western end with a sliver of Lake King William in view:

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What I saw from the north western end looking inland back towards where I had crossed:

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I imagine you are thinking this ‘plain’ which was once filled as part of the Lake, would be easy to cross, and that it would take me no time.  Well my story is different from those expectations. I took three hours to cover the 2kms from the camping spot to the foot of the hill with the transmission line . Despite my experiences, I visualised my progress and could see the funny side.

The story starts as I walk towards Mount Charles and will be detailed in the next post.

End of day departure time

I usually make a point of starting the walking day as early as possible – to walk when I am the freshest and most alert and if the weather seems fine, then to use it while it stays good (Tasmania is known for its four seasons in one day).  However on the day when I started walking along Lake King William, because I was constrained by other life commitments I did not leave Hobart until 1.30 pm. My driver Emma took me west along the Lyell Highway until a short distance before Tarraleah when we turned left and deviated onto a 16 km gravel road towards Clark Dam at Butlers Gorge.  We dodged a few speeding cars as we travelled the narrow road, when everyone screeched and slewed in the slippery gravel on crests and unknowable corners. But I refused to worry. The sky was golden blue, the bush looked clean, the temperature was perfect for walking, and my excitement grew. My driver dropped me near Clark Dam and I started walking at 4 pm.  Thankfully at this time of year the sun sets around 9pm and I knew the light of day would continue longer.  I thought a three hour walk would be sufficient to isolate me and remove me from the chances of odd bods being in the locality. Not knowing what to expect, I planned for two nights out camping before reaching the town ship of Derwent Bridge.

Near my starting point, fishermen and families were pulling boats from Lake King William behind the arc of Clark Dam.  The water was glossy blue.

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The late afternoon was stunningly beautiful. I felt apprehensive but invigorated and ready to discover the Lake one step at a time.

Yesterday I walked to the source of the Derwent River

Over the past four days I have enjoyed remote, off-the-main-track inland Tasmania from Clark Dam at Butlers Gorge, along the edge of Lake King William to the town ship of Derwent Bridge, and then further north to where the Derwent River commences out of the gates of St Clair Lagoon.  I continued further north also to the Weir which controls water into St Clair Lagoon from the Derwent Basin (which is kept filled with water flowing from Lake St Clair).  Dozens of posts with all the details of the walks, and accompanied by some grand photos, will be forthcoming over the coming days.

This latest walk means I have walked most of the length of the Derwent River from the mouth to the source.  There are only a few gaps to fill if I have the courage (or a moment perhaps of insanity because of the level of difficulty I believe is involved) in the coming weeks.

For the moment, I thought a few photos would be in order to whet your appetite for more.

The photo below shows one aspect of a view across Lake King William in the late afternoon.

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The photo below looks across Lake King William early in the morning.

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Sun passing through gum leaves.

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The Derwent River early morning near Derwent Bridge.

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The source of the Derwent River – the water as it leaves St Clair Lagoon. I was standing on the dam when I took the second photo, and watching the water run away eventually to pass New Norfolk then Hobart and finally exit into Storm Bay before dispersing into the wide ocean.  The whole experience was quite marvellous.  The river was fresh and alive!  And so was I!

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Possible locations where the Derwent River can be ‘touched’

I have compiled a list of those locations where I believe, with a vehicle, it will be possible to ‘touch’ the Derwent River occasionally along its length between Gretna and Lake St Clair.  Please let me know if any section listed below takes your fancy and if you would be interested to try it out.

Almost all sections include driving on bitumen highway, gravel roads and poor tracks. Some of these may be forestry roads.  If you wish to volunteer to take me to one of these sections (let me know on walkingthederwent@gmail.com), please feel comfortable that your car can handle the different conditions.  Of course, common sense will prevail and we will never push on if a road is too rough for your vehicle and your peace of mind.

If you are happy to help me reach my goal, albeit differently than originally expected, I would like to fill up your tank with petrol as some compensation.  You know my ‘walking the Derwent’ is a non-commercial project, but since I do not own a car nor drive, I need transport – and therefore, I am happy to cover the cost.

  1. On eastern shore – From New Norfolk drive along the Lyell Highway and then, not far past Gretna’s Sports ground, take a left turn into Clarendon Road and drive to farmstead buildings about 250 metres from the river on a hill. Perhaps 140km return trip.
  2. On western shore – From New Norfolk drive along Glenora Road, and turn left at Bushy Park then right onto Meadowbank Road over the Tyenna River then next to Derwent, then on over Meadowbank Creek to a hill top with buildings. It may be possible to continue quite a way on this road. Minimum 130 and maybe up to 160kms return trip
  3. On eastern shore – From New Norfolk drive along the Lyell Highway and turn left off the Highway onto Meadowbank Dam Road. Continue to dam and southern end of Meadowbank Lake. At least 170 kms for round trip.
  4. On western shore – Travel from New Norfolk and turn left into Gordon River Road at Bushy Park, then turn right off Gordon River Rd into Ellendale Rd and then right onto Rockmount Road before you reach the township of Ellendale. There seem to be many dirt forestry tracks to Meadowbank Lake. At least 170kms return trip and maybe 200kms return or more depending on roads.
  5. On western shore – Travel from New Norfolk and turn left into Gordon River Road at Bushy Park, then turn right off Gordon River Rd into Ellendale Rd and drive on through the township of Ellendale until you reach Dawson Rd / Dunrobin bridge over Meadowbank Lake. Turn left before bridge and it seems we can drive 2kms further up along the Lake edge. Return to Ellendale Road, cross bridge and connect with the Lyell Highway. At least 170kms return trip and maybe 200kms return or more depending on roads.
  6. On eastern shore – From New Norfolk drive up Lyell Highway and continue past the left turn off to Dunrobin bridge and afterwards and to the left there are a number of dirt tracks seemingly without gates. After a while these tracks/roads only extend to the Ouse River and not the Derwent River so map consultation is crucial. At least 180kms return and maybe over 200kms return depending on how many side roads/tracks can be driven along.
  7. On eastern shore – Drive up Lyell Highway past Ouse then turn left at Lake Repulse Road. Continue to intersection with Cluny Lagoon Road and turn left and go to Cluny Dam. Return to intersection and continue on Lake Repulse Road to the Repulse Dam. Can cross a bridge and continue back south around Cluny Lagoon to a ‘settlement’ named Cluny.  Perhaps could access this road from the Ellendale Rd on the western shore? By driving north from Repulse Dam along Dawson Road/then renamed Thunderbolt Road it seems we can take right hand detours to Lake Repulse. Over 200kms maybe 250kms or more minimum round trip.
  8. On eastern shore – Drive up Lyell Highway past Ouse, over the Dee River until the sign appears for a left turn at Catagunya Road. Drive down to Catagunya Dam. 200kms minimum return trip
  9. On eastern shore – Drive up Lyell Highway past Ouse, over the Dee River, past Black Bobs and turn left at Long Spur Road. This runs around Wayatinah Lagoon. Go past the intersection to Wayatinah Dam, turn left and travel to Wayatinah Power Station on Lake Catagunya. Return to intersection and turn left and travel to Wayatinah Dam. Cross bridge and continue on to Wayatinah township. Access dirt tracks in the vicinity of all. Drive south from the Wayatinah Dam on the western shore along the Florentine Road but don’t bother crossing the Florentine River because the road goes inland away from the river. Minimum of 230kms but most likely  at least 300kms round trip.
  10. On eastern shore – Drive up Lyell Highway and when you reach a canal passing under the road, and where the road turns right to go to Tarraleah, go straight ahead on Butlers Gorge Road. Note there are limited roads off and around going closer to the river near that intersection. Continue along Butlers Gorge Road for 10-15 kms heading for Lake King William. Reach Clark Dam and Power Station. Continue onto Switchback Track along side of Lake King William. This track stops and you have to return the same way – swamp separates you from the track north about 500 metres away. This would be a big day and I suggest take overnight accommodation at Tarraleah before setting out. PERHAPS it is possible to walk across the swamp and then walk about 7 kms to Derwent Bridge. Unknown over 300 kms return trip.
  11. On eastern shore – Drive up Lyell Highway to Derwent Bridge and continue past to left hand turn off on the western side of Lake King William and drive the track to the lake. 360 kms return trip minimum.
  12. On eastern shore – Drive up Lyell Highway to Derwent Bridge. Walk from the bridge over the Derwent River near the township of Derwent Bridge to St Clair Dam at the bottom of Lake St Clair Lagoon where the Derwent River starts. Walk to Pump House Point and St Clair Weir at the southern end of the Derwent Basin. 350kms return trip minimum.

 

Tassie Link back to Hobart

When the Tassie Link bus rolled to a halt at Gretna, I was surprised it was only a small one designed to carry approximately 20 people. I later learnt that if there are minimal bookings the small bus is used but with more bookings a standard larger bus is put into service.  This is the main bus line that links the historic west coast to Hobart via Lake St Clair.  Previously, I had been surprised that the service only runs four days a week, making the development of travel plans more challenging for tourists and locals alike.  Obviously most people drive.

As the driver got out to collect my fare, the side door was swung open by a happy guy and everyone on the bus called out a friendly “Hi” followed by the command, “Give us y’ pack”.  My pack joined a high pile at the back of the bus and once I sat, the happy chat began and lasted through to Hobart.  Everyone was on holiday from different part of mainland Australia and they had all just finished walking the Overland Track from the famed Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair. Similarly to me they had been at the Derwent Bridge pub for a few hours waiting for the bus to arrive. So we were all very merry regaling each other with the stories of our walks.  It was the perfect ending to a brilliant two days of discovery.

When I walked in through my front door at 11pm, a warm glow spread across my face.  I was home!

Water Treatment Plant

I continued on from Atherfield House and, after passing the Glenfern Rd turn off, I walked westwards until a clearing gave me unexpected access to the river and a full view of a heavy building on the other side. I have not been able to determine the function of this stand-alone structure, however I suspect the building somehow connects with structures soon encountered on my side of the river further along.

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On the non-river side of the road some acres had been circled with high protective fences.

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This was Bryn Estyn, a Water Treatment Plant.

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I wondered if I was dreaming; were the two golden projections on top of the building simulated sheep?

Fences and limited or non-existent river access were the most memorable features of my walk. A good example of these barriers is shown below.

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In the photo above you can see the Lyell Highway on the other side of the river. This road sits close to the river for many kilometres then turns inland away as it wends its way to Tasmania’s west coast towns of Queenstown, Strahan, Zeehan and Rosebery – via Derwent Bridge at Lake St Clair.

Wilderness – what is it?

The word ‘wilderness’ has different meanings depending on context. Dictionaries offer a range of similar meanings:

  • An uncultivated, uninhabited, and inhospitable region. Neglected or abandoned.  A large area of land that has never been developed or used for growing crops because it is difficult to live there. (Oxford)
  • An unsettled, uncultivated region, especially a large tract of land that has not been significantly affected by human activities. A barren or desolate area; a wasteland. Something characterised by bewildering vastness, perilousness, or unchecked profusion. (The Free Dictionary)
  • A wild, uncultivated region, usually where humans do not live. Any desolate tract or area. (WordReference.com)
  • A tract or region uncultivated and uninhabited by human beings. An area essentially undisturbed by human activity together with its naturally developed life community. An empty or pathless area or region. (Mirriam Webster dictionary)

From Old English used in the 13th century, the word ‘wilderness’ is derived from wild dēor ‘wild deer’, wilddēoren ‘wild beasts’, and from wildēornes, ‘land inhabited only by wild animals’. From Middle English, wildern is ‘wild’.

Reflecting on these varying definitions, I realise some of the meanings ring true particularly in relation to the land along the Derwent River between Lake Catagunya and Derwent Bridge (I anticipate this part of the River will take at least 8 days to walk, over three stages).

Lake Catagunya to Derwent Bridge

The sides of the River will be uncultivated and uninhabited. Its dense forest, littered with generations of massive tree falls, will make some sections relatively inhospitable.  The only markers of human kind will be parts where old growth logging has or is occurring, and where the infrastructure associated with dam construction across the Derwent River has occurred and is being maintained.  The area will not be barren, desolate (although I might feel desolate when penetrating some of the denser bush hour after hour), and it is not neglected, abandoned nor a wasteland.  This wilderness will be rich with flourishing flora and fauna, have profound connections with the original indigenous population pre-European settlement of Van Diemen’s Land, hold a social history with the settlers who moved inland in the 1800s and 1900s, and include an occasional contemporary history with photographers, tourists and fishermen.

The United States of America has proclaimed special legislation. ‘The Wilderness Act bans all kinds of motors, roads, and permanent structures from large tracts of American territory. It provides a legal definition of wilderness, as land that’s “untrammelled by man” with a “primeval character and influence”.’  You can read more at this site.  What is the Australian situation?

The Wilderness Society of Aus logo

The Wilderness Society of Australia summarises our state-based rather than national legislation in relation to the wilderness. ‘Dedicated wilderness legislation exists in NSW and SA, which allows the nomination, assessment, declaration and management of wilderness. In other States, such as Victoria, Queensland, WA and the ACT, management of wilderness is provided for under general nature conservation legislation, with varying degrees of usefulness in terms of actually ensuring identification and appropriate protection.’

In Tasmania we have a range of legislation including the most recent Tasmanian Forest Agreement Act that was negotiated to include the requirements of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area (TWWHA) – that is, those parts of Tasmania which have been recognised with World Heritage listing for their natural and cultural heritage that is important to the world community.  Tasmania’s Nature Conservation Act talks about biological and geological diversity, and historic sites and provides regulation for our fauna (and strangely it also covers animals which do not live in Tasmania such as dingos and wolves) and flora. The word ‘wilderness’ does not appear.

stock-photo-64271807-walking-boot-and-bike-tread-marks-on-muddy-trail(Image is a free iStock photo)

The land on which I will walk has been walked for thousands of years originally by our indigenous ancestors and more recently by their descendants and European settlers. However, there will be parts on my trek which will not have had many footfalls because of the isolation and the forest density.  Unless there was a purpose such as surveying the Derwent River as part of planning to build dams, sensible people would travel from Lake St Clair towards the coast  via the region around the township of Ouse, or by more hospitable routes. With or without the word ‘wilderness’ being written into our state legislation, much of the inland edges of the Derwent River edge are undoubtedly genuine wilderness.

Australian stamping grounds

Blog reader, Ju, surprised me with an unexpected gift; a freshly minted set of postal stamps.  Recently Australia Post released the set noting 4 Great Australian Walks: The National Pass in New South Wales, the Cape to Cape Track in Western Australia, the Larapinta Trail in the Northern Territory, and the Overland Track in Tasmania.

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On each of the four gloriously coloured stamps, a photograph of an iconic landscape represents each Walk. On the edge of each stamp, a white featureless body with a pack-on-the-back shape represents one or more people walking. Mentally you can pop yourself into the body and become that walker.

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The image for Tasmania’s Overland Track is Cradle Mountain. This marks the commencement in northern Tasmania for the 60km walk which winds southwards and ends at Lake St Clair (regular blog readers know the southern end of that Lake is where the Derwent River commences its life).  I walked the Overland Track in 2006 and strongly recommend it to others; leisurely – over 6 days with walks off the main path and plenty of time to soak in the atmosphere.  I remember that when I saw some of the mountains on the west coast of Tasmania way in the distance, I realised Tasmania was not so large. I thought it would be possible to walk across this state from the east to the west but I have not pursued that idea. Yet.

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Looking across to Cradle Mountain and beyond, and at its reflection in the pristine Dove Lake at its feet, I can see a light powdering of snow.  Currently, snow is very topical.

Over the past few days, Hobart and the rest of Tasmania have received loads of snow the likes of which hasn’t been seen here for 30 years.  News and social media are brimming with sensational photos many showing the thrill of this unusual flurry: for example, http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-08-03/snow-across-tasmania-forces-many-key-road-closures/6666838 and http://www.news.com.au/national/tasmania/cold-brings-warnings-and-snow-wonder/story-fnn32rbc-1227467164313.

Most appropriate for this blog about Walking the Derwent, is the photo I found of The Hungry Wombat Café at Derwent Bridge (the township at the southern end of Lake St Clair to which I will walk sooner or later). When you look at the photo below (taken from the website above), you will understand why I am not walking inland at the moment.

Snow at The Hungry Wombat Cafe Derwent Bridge 030815