Tag Archives: Derwent River

Water Taxi ferry stops operation

Many weeks ago I  joined a group of mad hatters (the Scarlatt O’Hatters local group all decked out in purple clothes and donning elaborate red hats) on a river journey upstream from Sandy Bay to New Norfolk on the Derwent River.

I loved the historical information which the water taxi driver provided about features as we passed the shoreline of the river. He deliberately drove the boat into particular bays with specific and interesting histories. At that time, I had walked both the eastern and western shores of the Derwent River and had researched and seen a great deal, however, during the boat ride I gained new information.  More delightfully I saw the land from a new angle and appreciated the Derwent River quite differently.  It was an experience about which I enthused to friends and encouraged them to try.

So it is not surprising that when, not so long ago and since that memorable trip by water to New Norfolk, the story of the ceasing of this water taxi business became big news, I was stunned.  You can read more at http://www.themercury.com.au/news/tasmania/hobart-water-taxi-operator-rod-howard-winds-up-after-seven-years-of-feast-or-famine/story-fnj4f7k1-1227278029630

I am very sorry that Rod Howard felt he had to pull the plug and close the service.

The Derwent River is an extraordinary resource which should be used frequently by commuters and tourists. The harbour is one of the most picturesque in the world, yet people are have not been patronising services sufficiently for someone to be gainfully employed. Alas, there are no longer any commuter services on the water, and apart from the MONA ferry, the Peppermint Bay cruise and the historic old Cartela, there are few other locals boats plying the waters to carry locals and tourists around.

The last leg to the New Norfolk Bridge on Stage 14

A couple of minutes after passing below the Bush Inn, I enjoyed walking underneath the grandeur of an elderly spreading oak tree.  And then moments later, ahead of me I could see small portion of a massive horizontal girder belonging to the New Norfolk bridge over the Derwent River.

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Information panels provided details about earlier bridges across the Derwent, and historic buildings located nearby.

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The grand and stately houses pictured above, are located near the bridge.

But back to my path to the bridge. In front of me was a gated fence with a sign informing me the gate was locked overnight.  I pushed it open and walked across an impeccably kept mowed lawn. A private sanctuary. Green and lush. The sparkle on the river to my right.  A strongly built bridge ahead.  I reached my destination for Stage 14 at 2.58 pm.

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Instead of charging off up and into the New Norfolk township, and finding a bus to return me to Hobart, I lay down on that green carpet and, soaking in the sun, I felt incredibly fortunate.

My stage 14 day had started with a  5.30 am rise (in the dark) and a Metro bus departure from central Hobart at 7.17 am. The bus left New Norfolk at 4.20 pm and returned me to Hobart. I walked in my front door at 6 pm (as the sun set) feeling quite chuffed because I had seen and experienced many beautiful natural features, the sun had lit up the landscape and the river, and I had talked with interesting people. A wonderful day!

The scenic walk and something for people living with a disability

My walking pathway along the scenic edge of the Derwent River on Stage 14, passed between the New Norfolk Caravan Park and the glistening river water, so I continued unhindered to amble amidst the glow of autumn gold leaves.

By 2.40pm a new jetty presented on my right, public toilets and a Bowling Club were on my left and, in the air, wild geese honked. I could hear quacking ducks on the river.  I watched squalling seagulls fighting over nothing or so it seemed. A No Through Road sign was set only to control vehicular traffic and it was clear pedestrians were welcome to continue onwards.

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As I approached a large flat platform, at 2.45pm, I couldn’t work out what its reason for existence was.  What I saw was:

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When I read the sign its intended use was clear.

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This is the first time I have seen equipment or structures set out in a community/public space for a person who has a disability so s/he can continue their sport.  I was very impressed.

By 2.50 pm I had looked up onto the top of the hill to my left to see the still functioning 1825 heritage Bush Inn (the Inn was built in 1815). Apparently this is the oldest continuously licensed pub in Australia. You can read more information at http://www.australianbeers.com/pubs/bushin/bush.htm

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Down the 99 steps and towards the New Norfolk Caravan Park

The initial few metres of mildly inclining path gave no warning of the steps to follow.

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I loved looking upstream along the blue Derwent River on such a majestic day.

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Once at river level, I wandered through a dappled glade.

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At the start of the caravan park I spotted a panel providing information about the Derwent River, related historical features and the development of New Norfolk.

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The time, at this part of Stage 14 of my walk along the Derwent River, was 2.35 pm.

Tynwald Park and sports fields reached on Stage 14

By 1.30 pm I had passed the Tynwald estate and arrived at the flat expanses of sports fields that lie next to the Lachlan River, a feeder into the Derwent River.

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It seemed a perfect place for a lunch break. When I was ready to leave, a sign gave me two options by which to reach New  Norfolk: take a track along the Lachlan River or take another track next to the Derwent River. I chose the latter and continued across a tiny bridge.

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From the boat ramp on a track towards New Norfolk

A few minutes after 1pm I wrenched myself away from the gloriousness of the boat ramp, and started on an unsigned vehicle width track, having tried unsuccessfully tracking closer to the water. As I discovered later, the Derwent River was edged by cliffs and so walking uphill and across the top was the only way to proceed.

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As I walked and with some sadness about leaving a beautiful place, I looked back to the boat ramp and down the Derwent River.

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The track was perfectly suitable for someone in a motorised wheelchair (or so it seemed to me).

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This was a sunfilled, quiet, easy walk across the top of the cliff above the Derwent River moving westwards towards New Norfolk.

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Arrival at the ramp for launching boats into the Derwent River on Stage 14

I reached this beautiful location at 12.50pm, took in the surroundings and watched other visitors casually meandering around the area.

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A sign provided boat safety information.  On the second photo, an arrow points to the location of the boat ramp.

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I felt I could stay here forever. I was warm in the sun, the sky was so blue and clear, no wind forced its way around the curves of the river and into this environment, the water was so clear I could watch a school of eating-size fish swimming around, and the perfect reflections on the river all contributed to my great sense of well being. For this alone, the Stage 14 of my walk along the Derwent River had been worthwhile.

ROCKY 6 discovered after leaving the Lyell Highway

On Stage 14 , I reached the turn off from the Lyell Highway around 12.45 pm and stopped to read my maps in order to be certain that I would find an alternative trail situated closer to the edge of the Derwent River than the highway.  From this boat ramp road (has a sign with boat ramp symbol on the highway), the trail looked definite and continuous so I peeled off from the Highway.

A few metres along the gravel road, a ‘parkland’ to the left of the road was covered with the gentle leaf droppings of the surrounding gum trees. In the dappled light, I noticed a row of large rocks standing to attention neatly, each with a name tag.

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A few metres from the rock row, a sign provided additional information. It seems the sign was placed here in 1988 as part of the Australian Bicentennial year of celebrations of European settlement. Who by and why is not clear.

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Were these rocks and the sign a help in understanding the local geology? Yes and no. Mostly the information on the sign referred to locations further west and north of New Norfolk, the town which is located a few kilometres west of this display. I did learn that, about the time when Tasmania was beginning to separate from mainland Australia 60 million years ago, the Derwent River began to form; a young river by the standards of some of the rivers of the world (the Rhine River began to form 240 million years ago, the Colorado River started forming about 75 million years ago, and the Nile about 70 million years ago).

Why was this location chosen to present this display?  Who, apart from the occasional walker like me, would find and examine this display? People travelling in vehicles would not be stopping to look. Rather they would be focussed on reaching the river edge ramp to launch their boats. Very strange.

Reaching the exit from the Lyell Highway leading to the Derwent River

On Stage 14, from Sorell Creek I continued walking on the Lyell Highway for a few kilometres until reaching a gravel road that exited on the right towards a boat ramp on the Derwent River.

During the walk, I enjoyed spectacularly beautiful glimpses of the Derwent River as it turned through the landscape.

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I loved the enterprise of the roadside flower seller.

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A few hundred metres before the turn off to the boat ramp I spotted a sign (see arrow on map to pinpoint the location).

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Paper making mill on the Derwent River

The tiny settlement of Sorell Creek has a perfect view of the Norske Skog newsprint manufacturing mill across the Derwent River at Boyer.  The business website is located at http://www.norskeskog.com/Business-units/Australasia/Norske-Skog-Boyer.aspx

Since the 1940s this mill, along with others dotted around the state, has been a mainstay of the Tasmania’s economy.  Tasmania has been a land of old growth forests which, since European settlement, have gradually been reduced for farming, town and city growth and for the establishment of newer plantation forests.  Norske Skog only uses the wood from plantation forests and in this way protects the remaining ‘original’ forests and wilderness of Tasmania.

You can read more about the history of this plant at http://www.vantagepaper.com.au/BoyerHistory.aspx.

During the Stage 14 walk, I approached the mill during the latter part of the morning until I stood looking across the Derwent River at it. From then on, the mill gradually disappeared from view as I wound around walking paths along the curving Derwent River.

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Along the way, I passed many more spectacular poplar trees with their golden leaves.

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Green Island – do you know it?

How many islands are green with vegetation? How many blots of land are named Green Island? Probably many thousand.  Tasmania has a few ‘green’ geographical features spread around the state – followers may recall in an earlier walking stage I rounded Green Point on the eastern shore of the River. My walk along the Derwent River last week passed by a green Green Island.

While walking the length of Murphys Flat toward the northern end, across the water of the Derwent River I caught glimpses of a small length of low lying land in the flow of the Derwent River. Green Island was almost invisible from the western shore because the grasses in the Murphy’s Flat wetlands have grown tall.

This small piece of land provides a safe haven in which fish hang about the edges. New Norfolk Anglers Club members and others have enjoyed catching tagged salmon here.

Green Island is looked over by Mount Faulkner on the south western side of the river, and by Mt Terra and Mt Dromedary on the north eastern side.  On the map below, my arrow points to the slim Green Island near one bank of the Derwent River. The Lyell Highway is the yellow line curving through the lower part of the landscape. Murphys Flat is the fat area between the Highway and the River.

Green Island map

Did I feel uneasy walking alone past Murphys Flat on Stage 14 of my walk along the Derwent River? Answers and extraordinary stories.

Yesterday one of my posts introduced Addington Lodge as a Haunted House and since then a few readers have wanted to know more.

Photo of Addington Lodge

The photograph above is of Addington Lodge, Granton, apparently a former residence of Governor Arthur – from the collection of Linc Tasmania

In Hobart’s The Mercury newspaper of Saturday 6 July 1935 (http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/30094484?searchTerm=Anthony+Geiss), J Moore-Robinson wrote his version of the history of the House and area (then not known as Murphys Flat rather as Marsh Farm). A few descriptions and some extraordinary stories of what happened to a hop picker and others, create a feeling of how the crumbling remains of Addington seemed at that time.

The author talked about people “who visit southern Tasmania who have not seen the Haunted House but have been intrigued by its shady reputation and shadowy tradition. Empty and forlorn it stands to-day near the road-side on the way to New Norfolk, a gaunt spectre of a vague past, a meet  and fitting rendezvous for apparitions which, if the poets speak truly, steal at the witching hour of midnight, from yawning graves and uneasy vaults, to curdle the blood of humans. Motorists roll by unthinking at all hours of the day and night, but pedestrians, I am told, walk warily, or walk not at all past the place.”

Did I walk warily? Well yes I did. But my caution was the result of the stream of traffic pouring down the highway a couple of feet next to me.  Sometimes, in some situations, my body can feel ’something’ about a location, but with the incessant roar of vehicles close to my left ear, the brittle wind in my face, and the chilly temperatures I was charging on northwards and gave no thought to ghosts of the past.  Perhaps the bright hard sunlight kept them at bay.

The newspaper article continued: “The existing owner, Mr. F. B. Rathbone of Mt. Nassau, tells me that the place has been rather a bane and an expense to him, and he will not be sorry when nothing remains but a heap of rubble foundations. I asked him why. ‘I have lived in the place myself for weeks at a time,’ he said. ‘My son lived in it for more than a year. Neither of us saw anything uncanny, yet nobody will take it. It has a bad name, and I think it better to let it fall to ruins’. It appears that long before the war, folk were apprehensive and the Haunted House, lacking regular tenants, frequently was empty. Mr. Rathbone said that there are no spectres, never were any and that the noises and apparitions came from a loose board in the roof and from rats, rolling-apples and potatoes in a cupboard.”

But is this true? The newspaper article continued and included a number of stories which might explain the haunting reputation, and which might even be factual.

The hop-picker story

“Shortly before the embers of discontent of South Africa burst into the flames of war, a hop-picker having drawn his cash at Bushy Park was ’Waltzing Matilda’ to Hobart.  He was weary with tramping the hot and dusty road but, doubtless he looked forward, with unfeigned pleasure to the flesh pots and foaming tankards, of the city. As the sun set, he came, unaware of its story, to the Haunted House.  Shadows deepened on the nearby river as the hop picker, pushed open an unfastened door, entered the fateful house, ate his cold mutton and bread, washed it down with part of a billy-can of beer purchased at New Norfolk, spread his blanket on the floor, and slept the sleep of the weary. Presently he stirred and rubbed his eyes and, as he looked, the very marrow froze in his bones. His hair stood on end and his heart seemed to stay its pulsing, for rising before him in the doorway he saw a ghastly thing. ‘Thing’ is the right word, for the hop-picker had not seen or dreamed of anything like it. Thin legs, curved, and bent, supported an enormous body which, though it seemed to be clothed, was still visible to the trembling mortal who saw the apparition’s internal organs hideously pulsing and distended. Its neck, gashed from ear to ear, was unable to support the head which sagged horribly from one side to the other. Blood dropped from the severed jugular and the baleful gleams from the staring eyes pierced the semi-darkness and seemed to impale the terrified watcher. A butcher’s knife was clasped tightly in the spectre’s right hand, and hand and knife were horribly red.

In a crouching pose, the creature swayed toward the ‘hopper’, whose limbs seemed fettered by unseen manacles, from which he writhed and struggled to free himself as the menacing and blood stained figure approached. A foul smelling breath stung his nostrils and the knife was within striking distance of his heart, when, with a wrench that would have done credit to Samson, the ‘hopper’ broke free, dodged the ghost, darted through the doorway and, looking neither right nor left, sped down the road, a white and terror-stricken figure clad only in a shirt. Feeling rather than seeing the ‘thing’ close behind him, he essayed a short cut over a bank, slipped on a stone, gashed his head on a sharp rock, and lapsed into blessed insensibility. When he came to, he found himself prone on the cold floor of the room in which he supped. His blanket lay in a disordered heap. His fingers bled where he had scratched and torn at the floorboards. A lump on the side of his head betokened a meeting with some foreign body. Looking around cautiously the ‘hopper’ could see nothing of his ghastly visitor but, thinking discretion the better part of valour, gathered his belongings, moved tremulously through the door to spend the remaining hours of darkness in vigil by the roadside.”

The hopper’s ghost

“It is said that the hopper’s ghost is the spiritual remnant of a whaler, who, wandering further afield than usual, met at the Golden Fleece (for that was the sign of the haunted house 100 years ago) a bushranger disguised as an honest man. The pair spent some happy hours until the Tasmanian Robin Hood, seeing his chance expertly slit the throat of his ‘friend’ and disappeared with his wallet.”

Lady with the broken heart

Another story has to do with a young and beautiful woman who, betrayed by the usual dashing cavalier, languished in spite of the kindly protection of the landlady until, with a broken heart and saying a prayer for bitter revenge, she stabbed herself, and so went away to brighter, and, I hope, happier fields.

The landlord and his landlady

Still another tale is told about the landlord and the landlady, when the place was the William the Fourth hostelry. This couple, having decided to essay life together without bothering the clergy lived happily for a while, but only for a while. Quarrel followed quarrel, and in these the woman usually came out on top for she was bigger, quicker and stronger, although the landlord had been a soldier and had seen wars, having been with that army which ‘swore terribly in Flanders’, he became tired of being the vanquished, and one day finding his ‘wife’ asleep, stabbed her.  Not content with that, he drove a spike into her head, cut out her tongue, slit her throat and not being quite sure at this stage that she was really dead, and poured some poison down her throat. He then tenderly buried her and was caught and duly hanged which seems to be the only really proper and moral part of the story.”

The Golden Fleece’s reputation as an Inn

“It was during Fitzgerald’s term as licensee that, according to legend and tradition, the place achieved its notoriety, which, considering the grounds on which he was later pilloried is not surprising. It is certain that the ‘Golden Fleece’ had an evil reputation, and that the name was truly descriptive of the ‘fleecing’ accomplished within its walls, and the ‘golden’ results which accrued to the enterprising landlord.”

Kelvin Markham (http://www.km.com.au/tasmania/ch14.htm) has a different view on why the House was haunted.

During the twenty one mile journey to New Norfolk, I had the company of a ghost – one Denis McCarty. To you who follow me along this road, the first made in Tasmania, I present this Irish ghost, ex-convict, constable, farmer and grazier, road-maker, Deputy Provost Marshal and much more. My assertion is that Denis, after all his troubles in constructing the road, drinking his share of the 500 gallons of rum that were to be part payment, and then dying whilst his claims for final settlement were being considered by Governor Sorell and Macquarie, perambulates this unpaid-for road, and, when he finds it necessary to take shelter, rests in the old Golden Fleece.  If you dive into the history of this road, you will learn a number of things. For example You will stand at his deathbed, seeing it only as through a glass darkly, and wonder what Jemott and Broadribb had to do with it – if anything. Contemporary records refer mysteriously to these persons as knowing more than they should of McCarty’s end.”

These background stories and reasons for Addington House or Lodge/Golden Fleece Inn/William the Fourth hostelry to be haunted make for wonderful fiction-writing and movie-making opportunities.  Anyone interested?

Add Lodge drawing -UTAS library

The image above is a drawing of ‘Addington Lodge Colonel Arthur’s Marsh Farm between Bridgewater and Sorell Creek Derwent Valley’/’The Haunted House on the Granton New-Norfolk Road’ by artist A. T. Fleury c1931 – from the collection of Linc Tasmania

Why are these wetlands called Murphy’s Flats? Who was Murphy?

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Thanks to http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/file.aspx?id=17347  I know that “Murphys Flat Conservation Area historically formed a portion of the property locally referred to as Marsh Farm, which was established through an ambitious land reclamation endeavour begun by Governor Arthur in 1824. The property was hailed as an agricultural “show place” throughout Tasmania and was one of the earliest land reclamations in Australia.”

The site http://www.derwentestuary.org.au/assets/NIE_-_wetlands.pdf provides the information that “In 1997 we nearly lost 40% of these wetlands when a farmer started draining the 66 hectare marsh known as Murphy’s Flat.”  This action was the catalyst for various tiers of government to step in and fund the process to purchase the land and retain it as a conservation area. The area known locally as Murphys Flat was acquired on 1 May 2001 by the Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife Service.

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The 2010 Management Statement at (http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/file.aspx?id=17347) is informative.

Murphys Flat Conservation Area is located within a wetland complex on the southern shore of the River Derwent beside the Lyell Highway between Granton and New Norfolk. The area has been recognised as being particularly species rich, with expansive areas of marshes, underwater grasses, tidal flats and reed beds that provide habitat and breeding areas for large populations of fish, platypus and waterfowl. Murphys Flat Conservation Area comprises 25 to 30 per cent of remaining wetlands in the River Derwent. It is listed within both the Directory of Wetlands of National Significance and the Tasmanian Geoconservation Database.

Birds are particularly abundant in the reserve due largely to the diverse habitat. The vicinity is well known for its large population of black swans and it is a likely hunting and foraging area for five significant bird species including the wedge-tailed eagle, white-bellied sea-eagle, swift parrot, masked owl and great crested grebe. The secretive, little-known Australasian bittern is also known to occur there.

Murphys Flat Conservation Area serves as a nursery for the sandy flathead and also provides important shelter for other juvenile native fish. Backwater areas of the reserve are of particular biological significance with unique botanical assemblages and an abundance of gastropod molluscs.

Until the early years of this century, “Murphys Flat was used as a dump site for domestic rubbish, garden waste and for overburden from road and earthworks. As a result, the area of wetland vegetation communities has decreased and its condition has been further compromised through the spread of weeds, largely from this source.” Now a weed control program has been instituted. “The vision for Murphys Flat Conservation Area is that it will contribute significantly to regional biodiversity and geodiversity in the upper River Derwent estuary, provide water quality services and research opportunities and be a vehicle for increasing public awareness of wetland values.”

In addition to the natural history and situation, Murphy’s Flat has a cultural history.

Firstly, the site is reported to have been on a travelling route for two Aboriginal tribes (http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/file.aspx?id=17347).

Then, according to Kelvin Markham at http://www.km.com.au/tasmania/ch14.htmFour miles beyond Granton stood a derelict grey stone house, known to all and sundry as The Haunted House. No one can tell why it received its name, though it is popularly (and wrongly) supposed to have been the country seat of early governors. The haunted house was originally the Golden Fleece Inn, licensed on 22 October 1824 to one Henry Fitzgerald. It did not long cater for travellers and in 1837 was on the market. This building was also called Addington Lodge Villa at one time.”

Add Lodge drawing -UTAS library

The image above is a drawing of ‘Addington Lodge Colonel Arthur’s Marsh Farm between Bridgewater and Sorell Creek Derwent Valley’ / ‘The Haunted House on the Granton New-Norfolk Road’ by artist A. T. Fleury c1931 – from the collection of Linc Tasmania

Photo of Addington Lodge

The photograph above is of ‘Addington Lodge, Granton, apparently a former residence of Governor Arthur’ – from the collection of Linc Tasmania

The National Library of Australia (http://trove.nla.gov.au/ndp/del/article/30094484?searchTerm=Anthony+Geiss) offers the information that “Addington Lodge was named after Mr. J.H. Addington, the Secretary to the British Treasury at the time. It was constructed by Governor Sorell to serve as a country house in 1820, a year after the construction of the Hobart to New Norfolk Road. The lodge was a double storey brick house with an architectural style typical of a late Georgian villa with symmetrical doors and windows and a wide fan-lit front door. The lodge was renamed the Golden Fleece Inn and opened to the public after a Mr Barker sold it to Mr. Henry Thomas Fitzgerald in 1824 having owned it for 4 years only. Addington Lodge at Murphys Flat became a popular half-way house for travellers between Hobart and New Norfolk and earned an unsavoury reputation.”

If remains of this house still exist they are now obscured from view by the lush vegetation  growing across the wetlands.  I saw no sign of it as I walked past Murphy’s Flat.

To give you some idea about the look of the wetlands from the Highway, the photo below shows the landscape when I looked back over the road just walked.

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The wetlands looking toward the road yet to be walked.

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Along the kilometres (Murphys Flat Conservation Area is approximately 2.7 kilometres long and 550 metres wide at its maximum width) of Murphy’s Flat Wetlands, the vista consisted of subtle variations of the following:

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When I walked, most of the landscape between the Lyell Highway and the smoothly flowing Derwent River seemed impenetrable. I can only imagine this is a very safe place for water birds and fishlings to breed, and for native grasses and other plants to re-establish.

This posting started with a question which I have been unable to answer. I cannot discover who Murphy was. Regrettably.

Murphy’s law is a commonly heard saying which is typically stated as: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.  I wondered if the land now known as Murphy’s Flat had been purchased for the purpose of grazing animals and growing crops without due checking, and then found the wet soggy land to be useless in the days when preservation of native flora and fauna was not considered – I wondered if someone bought the land without really checking how it was and having spent all their money decided Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. BUT according to the definitive book The History of Murphy’s Law written by Nick Spark, this adage was named after an American aerospace engineer Captain Edward Murphy who said as much around 1950. The naming of Murphy’s Flat at Granton seems to have preceded this ‘law’ so the area must have been named after a local – but who was it?  More research required.

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Google maps cannot locate Murphy’s Flat so I have attempted to indicate the location this posting has referred to.  Within the hand drawn oval above, the Murphys Flat Conservation Area sits contained between the Derwent River and the Lyell Highway.

Lime Kiln Point ahead

After walking 3 or so kilometres from the bus stop earlier in the day, from a distance I could see part of a white wall fronting the Derwent River.

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At 8.50am on Stage 14 of my walk, I left the Lyell Highway and walked down what seemed to be an earlier version of the highway until I reached the site of the Lime Kilns at Lime Kiln Point.

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At the site I first discovered the remains of one lime kiln built into the massive white wall.

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Later I discovered there were two lime kilns in that wall.

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Inside each were two burners.

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If you looked at the video in the last posting, then you will be able to understand what my photos show you.

There are no site interpretations, signs, nor information panels and there are no site protection structures in place.  Perhaps these lime kilns are a minor piece of Tasmania’s history, nevertheless they are interesting. I would not have known what I was looking at except for the name of the Lime Kiln Point (a name which only appears on some maps. No road signs named this so if you come looking, it is located 200 metres north of the Derwent Estate Wines turn off) and I imagine there would be many others like me.

In front of the lime kilns, the broken remnants of a jetty poked up above the Derwent River through the cold air.

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The view upstream was majestic.

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After taking time to look around Lime Kiln Point, I continued northward. When the old road petered out, I clambered up a loose gravelly rise and back onto the Lyell Highway.  It was only 9am.

The Derwent River and its Highways

The south of Tasmania is crossed by trunk roads, regional freight roads and regional access roads, including six of the highways for walking on when walking from the mouth of the Derwent River to the source.

  1. The South Arm Highway which extends from Opossum Bay to where the suburb of Mornington reaches the Tasman Highway. I bussed and/or walked on the South Arm highway during Stages 1-3.

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2.   On the eastern shore of the Derwent from Geilston Bay to Bridgewater Bridge it was the East Derwent Highway which felt the plod of my feet occasionally during stages 5 -8 of my walk.

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3.    Once I reached Bridgewater on Stage 9, the highway crossing the Bridge was the Midland or Midlands Highway (sometimes referred to as the Heritage Highway).

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4.     Some of Stage 12 of my walk on the western shore towards the mouth of the Derwent River, included a couple of kilometres on the Channel Highway.

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5.   At the start of Stage 14 I will walk on the last few metres of the Brooker Highway, the main highway which extends from the centre of Hobart city to the Bridgewater Bridge at Granton. For the first time, at the Bridgewater Bridge, this Highway edges the Derwent River.

6.    Immediately after the highway intersection with the Bridge, the Lyell Highway commences. From Granton until I reach the source, the Derwent River winds closest to the Lyell Highway, the highway which extends west to the town of Queenstown (which is overshadowed by the copper bearing Mount Lyell). This highway will be my life line in terms of accessing public buses.