Category Archives: Hobart

In the right place at the right time watching the Derwent River

From my front windows I can look down the Derwent River, and when I am lucky, over the curve of Bellerive Bluff sloping into the water I can see tall masts suddenly appearing.  If I wait a few moments, the sails become visible and then the entire yacht sails into view, trying to fly to the finish line of the Sydney to Hobart yacht race.

Last night, my mind was full of stories and ideas. Earlier in the day I had relaxed in the large chairs within the Gold Class at the cinema courtesy of a friend, and been moved strongly by Russell Crowe’s new movie The Water Diviner.  We were both very impressed by the movie and were thrown into thinking and talking about World Wars, and the futility of lost lives and the consequences for families. Then later, once back at home, I finished reading our Tasmania’s Richard Flanagan’s Booker Prize winning novel The Narrow Road to the Deep North. Until then I had never truly felt the situation for our Prisoner of War soldiers forced by the Japanese army to build the Thai-Burma railway.  It is an extraordinary story, which made me feel quite breathless with despair about how different cultural values and beliefs can neutralise or destroy the natural talents of men.

So with two war stories swirling in my head, I dozed. When I woke from a half sleep at 2.20am I thought not of mud and death rather of water and the achievement of goals.

I ambled to my front windows and was brought wide awake. As I stood looking onto the dark Derwent River with the lights of streets, buildings and Wrest Point Hotel marking the western shore line, I realised something tall was slipping along behind Bellerive Bluff.  Within seconds the tall mast was momentarily blocking my view of bits of light on the other shore.  Before long the supermaxi was entirely in view and charging towards the finish line. I was surprised at its speed. Majestic. This morning, after checking the race standings, I now know I watched the third boat to arrive, Ragamuffin100.

Today’s arriving yachts have not been so lucky with the wind once they have come into my view. It’s almost as if once they pass Bellerive Bluff, the wind stalls.  I have watched yachts tacking across trying to make the most of a fickle breeze. Sometimes one almost passes another which had been way ahead.  It’s a beautiful clear morning in Hobart, and the surface of the Derwent River seems to be without a ruffle, but I doubt if any of the crew are thinking about that as they try to cover the last kilometre or so and improve their race standing and time.

Wild Oats XI took line honours for the 8th time when it crossed the finish line on the Derwent River

I bussed into Hobart seeking a spectacle and I wasn’t disappointed. I looked seaward when the bus crossed the Derwent River on the Tasman Bridge.  Hundreds of boats of all shapes and sizes were out on the water  welcoming the racing yachts into and up the River. Picture postcard imagery.  Perfect.

Once in the city and amidst thousands of people, I wandered down to the wharf. I loved the festive atmosphere and the sense of great achievements.

The tallness of the supermaxi masts always surprises me, and seeing the mast on the glossy Wild Oats XI was no exception. Gasp. So tall I had to move my head to see from the bottom to the top; simple eye movements were not enough.

The yacht was tied up and people, whether on or off the boat, were hugging and shaking hands, their tanned faces full of smiles. The crew had not slept but were exhilarated. Publically broadcast speeches followed. The sun beat down and it seemed the air reverberated with good will.  Today was definitely full of joy for those who have arrived safely in port at Hobart.  ABC Online was the first to transmit a story of the win.  Have a look at http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-12-28/2014-sydney-to-hobart-yacht-race-winner/5990156 for colourful action photos, and a video.

The great and wonderful Sydney to Hobart Yacht race is about to enter the Derwent River

For 69 years annually on Boxing Day (26th December), over 100 yachts have set sail from Sydney Harbour for the internationally renowned Sydney to Hobart Yacht race.  Their well-trained crews have great ambitions of becoming line or overall winner depending on the size and class of their yachts.

The website (http://rolexsydneyhobart.com/about-the-race) explains this race is an egalitarian event, attracting yachts as small as 30-footers or large maxis, sailed by crews who range from weekend club sailors to professionals from the America’s Cup and Volvo Ocean Race circuits. The Rolex Sydney Hobart Race 2014 is a classic long ocean race open to anyone who owns a yacht that qualifies for this challenging event and which meets all the safety requirements of a Category 1 safety race.

Today is the exciting one for Hobart residents, thousands of yachtie fans and plane loads of tourists who expect to see the first two towering maxis come over the final line later this afternoon.  As I type this posting, an Australian yacht Wild Oats XI (which has won the race 7 times) leads the USA maxi Comanche which is trailing by 10 kilometres. The rest of the fleet are over 140 kilometres north and none of those yachts can be expected to arrive until tomorrow at the earliest.

But, for today’s two maxis, the big trial will be sailing the final 11 nautical miles of the Derwent River to the finish line.  A change in the wind is forecast and this could be to Comanche’s advantage.  The history of this race is littered with leaders who are overtaken during the last leg on the Derwent due to fickle, conflicting or no winds. Currently the winds around Hobart are north-westerly 15 to 20 km/h and are expected to shift south to south-easterly 15 to 25 km/h in the early afternoon then become light in the late evening.

As I sign off, Wild Oats XI has entered Storm Bay which is the last expanse of water before the Derwent River.

Check out the website http://rolexsydneyhobart.com/ for stunning photos of the yachts and in a few hours you will see the arrival of the first two in Hobart, on this gorgeous sunny blue sky day.

Kingston Beach, Tasmania

I found a tiny laneway, squeezed between residential properties, which extended from Roslyn Avenue near where I was staying in Kingston, down to Kingston Beach.  The downward stroll took 6 minutes and, later, the return trundle uphill took 10 minutes.  The easy accessibility to the beautiful foreshore is an asset for locals.  I loved the closeness of the lush vegetation along the pathway and then the openness of the Beach extending before me once I reached the Esplanade.

The morning was overcast with a moderate breeze, but the weather did not deter families, groups of children or a kayaker from enjoying the beach and water.

In the photo below the lone kayaker sets off to enjoy a paddle. The land which can be seen across the Derwent River is the South Arm peninsula. Standing on Kingston Beach, I could identify key points along that piece of land which I had walked during Stage 1 and 2: Gellibrand Point, Opossum Bay, South Arm, and Fort Direction Hill.

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I followed a path along the foreshore northwards to Browns River and then I retraced my steps. Looking towards the mouth of Browns River as it enters the Derwent River.

Pathway along Derwent at KB

At Browns River, one side of Mount Wellington looms in the distance.

end of Kingston beach road

Kingston Beach and Browns River are located within the municipality of Kingborough as part of the Greater Hobart Area. In the photo below the waters of Browns River can be seen meeting the Derwent River.

Sign

Nearby I discovered a plaque (photo below) and its message surprised me. Browns River was named in 1804 (you can read more about Robert Brown at https://www.forestrytas.com.au/assets/0000/0185/tasfor_12_10.pdf).  From the reports of my earlier walks in this blog, you might recall that Risdon Cove was established as the first white/non indigenous settlement (on the eastern shore, and quite a few kilometres upstream from the mouth of the Derwent River) in September 1803. I find it quite extraordinary that within months of the first white settlement (in fact Brown named the River in April 1804), despite the difficulties of making a new home in this foreign land, new arrivals were off and about checking and naming other edges of the Derwent River. It wasn’t until July 1804 that the area around Sullivans Cove (the site for the central part of the current city of Hobart) was set up for permanent residency. Sullivans Cove is much much closer to Browns River than Risdon Cove, so Brown had a long way to paddle.

Browns River plaque

The photo below looks back towards the centre of Kingston Beach from the Browns River northern end.

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I loved the trees and was especially impressed by one of the flowering gum trees next to the foreshore walkway.

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The stroll from the one end of Kingston Beach to the other takes about 15-20 minutes and represents approximately 1 kilometre of the Derwent River’s length.  Immensely pleasant.  If you haven’t enjoyed this part of the Greater Hobart Area, or it’s a while since you have travelled here, then I strongly recommend you make a visit.

Fish and chip shops, cafes, a sad looking motel and Duncan’s Beachfront Motel Hotel are located across from the beach.  Some readers might know Slim Dusty’s song ‘I’d like to have a drink with Duncan’ (refer to http://www.lyrics007.com/Slim%20Dusty%20Lyrics/Duncan%20Lyrics.html for more information). Jo will recall the hilarious fiasco at a fashion parade in Darwin when this music coincided with a bridal dress being shown on the cat walk.  I wonder who Kingston’s pub is named after? Anyone know?

shops and cyclists  Motel  Duncans pub

Along the street travelling away from the beach towards Hobart, you will pass an assortment of outlets including hair salons, service stations, a community hall and, very surprisingly, the Wafu Works which is a shop selling vintage authentic Japanese fabrics.

Japanese Wafu Works  Japanese fabric shop

Simple street art in the form of inset mosaic panels have been incorporated in the pavements.

Mosaic in pavement  Street mosaic in pavement

This part of Greater Hobart is very attractive, and I am vowing to visit more often.

Glorious rain

Yesterday, I was excited by the weather and exclaimed “Oh this is so tropical!”

The day had been warm and humid with brooding clouds. Then, all of a sudden, I watched the weather front coming across Mt Wellington and the thick strong flashes of lightning. Booming thunder rolled through the air. Gradually the mountain, Hobart city then the Derwent River disappeared from view and rain spots larger than a 50 cent piece splattered and splashed heavily on my balcony.

Within seconds, the largest hail I have ever seen cracked down. Solid ice balls half the size of golf balls, settling on my garden, balcony and the street.  Torrential rain.

Five minutes later bits of sun struck through the rain, the mountain became visible again, and the storm had passed. But the white hail remained like a lace cover on my property – for almost 20 minutes. Marvellous!  Today’s newspaper has a story with an online video – have a look at the hail on http://www.news.com.au/national/tasmania/freak-storm-brings-hail-and-heavy-rain-to-southern-tasmania/story-fnn32rbc-1227158393426

I wondered how others around Hobart fared.  Friends told me how they were caught in the wildness of the storm and were drenched even when they used an umbrella. Others remarked on the deafening noise of the hail on a tin roof.  To quote from one email (thanks An) “Some of our garden is less than happy. I had to pick all of the rhubarb as it had honeycomb leaves, my begonia lost all of its leaves and flowers, the water lilies are shredded as are most of the magnolia leaves. I feel sorry for the cherry and soft fruit growers. We had a few drifts of ice near our lemon tree and the cool air was quite spectacular! Our gutters overflowed due to ice too. Quite an eventful afternoon.”

We all seemed to love the drama of the storm.

 

And what are you doing in the week before Christmas?

Life before Christmas this year is conspiring to prevent me from taking a much-longed-for next walk along the Derwent River. Stage 10 seems so elusive. A weird flattish cloud hovers over Mount Wellington and the Derwent River is a silvery expanse striped with white ridges blown up by the wind. The sun is out and the temperature warm.  Perfect for walking.  Last week the problem was the weather and this week it is my unexpected and changing commitments that are delaying further exploration. So … apologies to my followers for the lack of new stories of discovery. Meanwhile, I hope you are making some of your own in your local area.

Looking forward to plodding again along the Derwent River.

Australian cartoonist Leunig has a point of view that I understand well.  It reflects the simplicity of walking.

Leunig as jpeg

Drat, drat and triple drat

It’s raining outside and the clouds are  are covering the ears of the hills. Mount Wellington has disappeared from view. Cars are flashing their windscreen wipers. Today is not the day to take stage 10 of my walk along the Derwent River.  Alas.

Moorilla Estate on the edge of the Derwent River, and Claudio Alcorso’s legacy

Two weeks have passed and I am yet to plod along a new stage of my walk along the Derwent. Unfortunately a number of commitments and inclement weather have kept me off the path but for the followers and other readers of this blog, I hope to be walking later this week or early next week and lodging new stories onto the blog.

History

Meanwhile a little history of the fabulous location at Berriedale where my last walking stage finished and the next stage starts needs to be provided.

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Moorilla is an estate producing wonderful wines from the vineyards that sit around MONA (Museum of New and Old Art) in the northern suburbs of the Greater Hobart Area.  Details about these good drops can be found at http://www.moorilla.com.au/. In addition, the world famous Moo Brew Brewery operates from the site.  Read more at http://www.mona.net.au/mona/moobrew

Claudio Alcorso

The estate and vineyard was originally established by entrepreneur and Italian textile merchant Claudio Alcorso in 1947. Read more at http://www.moorilla.com.au/winemaking/history/. Claudio Alcorso was well known for setting up Silk and Textile Printers Ltd. at Derwent Park, a suburb in the City of Glenorchy in the Greater Hobart Area.  He was also a patron of the arts. For example, in 1947 and other years Alcorso commissioned selected Australian artists to design new fabrics and then these were printed on silk, wool and linen. The artists included William Dobell, Hal Missingham, William Constable, Russell Drysdale, James Gleeson, Francis Lymburner, Adrian Feint, Jean Bellette, Donald Friend, Margaret Preston, Justin O’Brien, J. Carrington Smith, Loudon Sainthill, Frank Hinder, Carl Plate, Margo Lewers, Douglas Annand, Alice Danciger, and Desiderus Orban.  Tasmanians may recognise that our Jack Carrington Smith was recognised in this list of celebrated Australian artists. Their designs were displayed in substantial national exhibitions and helped to create a design shift nationally and were part of a global development in the design of fabrics. Have a look at http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1301&dat=19470821&id=fgNVAAAAIBAJ&sjid=25MDAAAAIBAJ&pg=7284,3275402 to see some of the fabrics.

Alcorso sponsored the Alcorso-Sekers Travelling Scholarship for Sculpture with the Art Gallery of New South Wales and helped bring some of the most controversial art to Australia in the 1960s and 1970s.

You can read a transcript of a short interview with this wonderful man at http://eprints.utas.edu.au/16629/2/alcorso-transcript.pdf.  Alcorso’s autobiography The Wind You Say. An Italian in Australia – the True Story of an Inspirational Life was published by Angus & Robertson in 1993.

Handing over to David Walsh

Alcorso sold the property to David Walsh in 1995 who, in concert with the current wine maker, has continued the open-mindedness of the original owner with a search for, and presentation to the public, of new and exciting and beautiful objects and experiences.

Stacks of wonderful photographs of Moorilla and MONA can be seen at https://www.google.com.au/search?q=moorilla+images&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=XreGVP8Lg4PyBcWxgTA&ved=0CDMQ7Ak

Since MONA opened to the public a few years ago, hundreds of thousands of people from around the world have poured into Tasmania and made the pilgrimage. It offers a feast for all the senses and no-one leaves the estate unchanged.

Just remember the estate and MONA are closed to the public every Tuesday.

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Where am I when I am on my walks? “Give me a map”, many cry.

Some readers have despaired for the lack of a running map which shows precisely the tracks where I have walked. I and others continue to try and solve the problem.

Meanwhile, for those who are unaware, I do create a location map with each posting. The map is static and simply pinpoints one place but at least it is a guide to where I was during that leg of the walk.  Sometimes if a location is not within Google maps then I cannot show it as the main location. For example I wanted to include a map with the McCarthy’s Point location but was limited to the two bays either side. This was problematic when the posting had nothing directly to do with the bays either side – but I chose one just to give readers a guide. When I want to pinpoint the Derwent River, the map highlights the southern suburb of Kingston.  Ahhhh I sigh.

There is another unfortunate matter. I now realise that those readers who are ‘followers’ by automatic email do not get direct access to that location map. For interested readers, when you receive the email you need to click onto the heading of the posting and this will take you to the website.  At the bottom of the posting on the website is a link which you click to open the map.

I realise that this is a tedious and tiresome process, but it may help some readers to orient themselves better.

The 9th stage of my walk along the Derwent River finished at MONA

More serious rain was threatening as I sat at the point, and rather than return to the Berriedale Caravan Park and then locate the Main Road seeking a bus, I decided to investigate whether it was possible to walk up the hill and arrive on the Moorilla estate at MONA (Museum of New and Old Art) by the ‘back door’.

Earlier in the day others had warned me that MONA was closed to the public every Tuesday. As a result, I was somewhat concerned that even if I was able to access MONA property, by the time I reached the Main Road perhaps the exit might be gated and locked and I would need to retrace my steps.  But I am glad to say the day had a happy ending. There were no gates or locks and my exit was simple and easy.

But before then, I continued my voyage of discovery.

It was very easy to wander up the hill from Cameron Bay. Firstly, I came upon a shed with the sign MONA ROTA and beside it a helicopter pad was laid out for the transport of special guests.

The hills behind Berriedale were almost invisible with shrouds of rain and I knew that a heavy downpour would be around me very soon.

Therefore, I was very pleased when I spotted a large concrete pipe, the sort which is used for drainage when major roads are being built. The pipe offered me perfect protection from the wind and rain. While standing inside, I discovered that the pipe was part of an art work, Worm Mound. A number of pipes like it were placed around a tepee located in their centre and then a high mound of rich soil provided a thick cover. Grass seed had sprouted and the mound seemed almost ready for a haircut. What I liked particularly was the long roots that had been inserted in the mound and which hung and draped inside the mound around the tepee.

I have visited MONA many times but I had never walked to this part of the property. The Worm Mound was a strange but uplifting find.

When the rain calmed a little, I ventured out with my umbrella firmly in hand and walked to the open concert area.  As the rain re-intensified, I noticed the rich red transparent door of one of the tall wooden ‘art’ buildings was open. I went inside and sat and listened to the dialogue which formed part of the art experience. Previously I had not made the time to do this and so the experience was most instructive. A meditation space.  In future I will be interested to visit the other similar structures built in the concert area to see if the voice and messages are the same.

Eventually I connected with Moorilla’s main thoroughfare and walked down to the Main Road at Berriedale. Bus stop 33 is located near the entrance to the Moorilla/MONA experience and I didn’t have to wait long for a Metro bus numbered X1 to transport me to Glenorchy and onto Hobart city.

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I left Moorilla/MONA at 4pm, half an hour after leaving the point where the southern end of Cameron Bay met the Derwent River. On a fine day and without any distractions the time required to pass through the property might have been 10 minutes.

I never had the intention to simply pass through this refreshingly invigorating complex with its thought provoking and startling exhibitions.  Besides, I had planned to reward myself at the end of this stage 9 with a glass of their award winning wines. Alas. That pleasure was not to be – on this occasion.

From Lowestoft Bay to Cameron Bay

Before leaving Lowestoft Bay, I looked up through the rain showers to see three Pelicans fishing on the water.

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A temporary stop under a gazebo offered no respite from the off and on again rain nor the fierce wind bursts. By 3.15pm I reached the start of the Berriedale Caravan Park. I followed the road through from Lowestoft Bay to Cameron Bay and was accompanied by a very persistent duck.

The Duck

I was worried s/he might follow me home but after a few hundred metres the duck dropped off the pace.

Before long I was walking away from the Caravan Park on the gravel road towards the Berriedale Sewage Treatment Works.  What a pong hung around this area!

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I hurried past the fenced-in nasal offender and around a barred gate designed to prevent vehicular traffic. The sign warning fishermen to be careful indicated to me that public access was acceptable.

By 3.30pm I reached the point where the southern end of Cameron Bay meets with the main flow of the Derwent River. I sat above the water’s edge, admired the views and contemplated where I had been and considered how much further I could travel on the 9th stage.

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Lowestoft Bay in Berriedale on my 9th walk along the Derwent River

Wandering down the track towards Lowestoft Bay, Berriedale’s Caravan Park and the headland with MONA were visible.

Towards MONAacross Lowestoft and Cameron Bays  20141125_145110

Eventually at 3pm, I reached the northern end of the Lowestoft Bay and could see the Bay stretching around to the Berriedale Caravan Park.

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Once on the open mowed green parklands, clear walking tracks were easily accessible.

The most amazing discovery of this 9th stage of my walk along the Derwent River was a significant memorial to the dogs that had been part of Australia’s fighting forces.

Three different components constituted the memorial.

  • A panel detailed the stories of some of the dogs.

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  • Vertical panels placed at intervals along the Lowestoft Bay waterfront with the names of the dogs and the wars they had fought in. For example:

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  • A paved and constructed place for quiet contemplation

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This memorial was so unexpected; a remarkable series of features the like of which I have never seen before.  How many readers knew it was there?

From McCarthy’s Point to Berriedale on my 9th walk along the Derwent River.

When I turned around for my last look northwards from McCarthy’s Point across Connewarre Bay and the main body of the Derwent River, the Cadbury factory was sunlit. I found it difficult to believe I had been there only 1 ¼ hours ago because of my experiences with new vistas since then: now the Cadbury factory seemed so far away.

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The walk from McCarthy Point moved along a pretty trail, well-trodden by others. It made for excellent walking.

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The vegetation was often lush and overgrown with free sown exotic plants.

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Before reaching Lowestoft Bay in the distance I was puzzled by … was it a woman washing herself in the garden.

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Of course on closer inspection this clearly was not the case.  First impressions can be so wrong!

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I thought the concrete blocks flanking ‘her’ feet were rather special element of the installation of this sculpture.

Closer to the water’s edge in front of this property stood a flag pole. This Australian flag was protected from the wind by nearby trees.  Considering the gale that blew around me all day in every nook and cranny it was extraordinary to have a moment of calm here.  Perhaps winds don’t blow here. Perhaps the flag always droops.

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In the photo above, across the Lowestoft Bay a section of the Berriedale Caravan Park is visible.

But before I reached the Bay,  I surprised a clan of rabbits happily resting on the leaf strewn path ahead of me.

Rabbits

I had the feeling they were not used to pedestrians on a weekday and were most put out as they scurried off to hide.

From Windermere to McCarthy’s Point via Coonewarre Bay on my 9th walk along the Derwent River

The track from Windermere southwards was not signposted but with hunches I found a well walked and easy informal track, the start of which was rather obscure.

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More black swans swimming.

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I loved the tall stand of pine trees which featured on one part of the track to Connewarre Bay.

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This was my first view of Connewarre Bay with the backdrop of prominent Mount Wellington.

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Once near the houses with their lawns extending to the water’s edge, I came across a wonderful piece of rustic furniture to be enjoyed by walkers such as myself. The wood’s soft grey weathered tones were immensely attractive.

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Further along, I came across a large family of what I think were Eurasian Coots – black feathered with white bills. My books suggest these birds are found on fresh water lakes and swamps. The Derwent River, at this distance from the sea, apparently still has a saltiness from the daily tidal flows. Perhaps my identification is incorrect. Anyway this family weren’t sure whether to scurry from the shore onto the water and ‘escape’ from me or not.

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I continued walking around the Bay towards McCarthy’s Point.

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It took half an hour reaching McCarthy’s Point from Windermere. I loved the view across the Derwent River towards the suburb of Otago Bay with Mount Direction behind.

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