Category Archives: Walking

Hamilton and Ouse in Tasmania

These two historic towns straddle the Lyell Highway and both are situated a distance from the Derwent River.  Private farms fill the distance. Direct access to the River can only be achieved by driving approximately 15 kms when leaving Hamilton, or when driving from Ouse, the River or Meadowbank Lake can be reached from two directions; one approximately 7 and the other approximately 10 kms away.

Hamilton is located approximately 4kms ‘as the crow flies’ to the east of Meadowbank Lake.  The Clyde River, which passes through Hamilton empties into Meadowbank Lake (and it once flowed directly into the Derwent River before the Meadowbank Dam was built in 1967).  Tasmania for Everyone claims ‘Hamilton had its origins at a time when early European settlement of Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania) had progressed from Hobart up the Derwent Valley. The first settlers arrived here shortly after New Norfolk was settled in 1807. A ford across the “Fat Doe River” probably led to the first settlement of the area then known as Sorell Plains, with the village first named Macquarie’s Town, and later, Lower Clyde.By 1828 there were a few weatherboard and sod cottages on the banks of the Clyde, whilst by the 1830s a visitor noted there were some thirty sly grog shops as one entered the town. The name Hamilton had already been suggested for the settlement sometime in 1825 when, during a visit, Lt. Governor Arthur asked if Bothwell would not be suitable, being a Scot himself and dining with the mainly Scottish settlers. The “Fat Doe River” was renamed the Clyde and Hamilton and Bothwell chosen as names for the new settlements, both names recalling towns on the lower and upper Clyde in Scotland.
Occupying a strategic location in the development of roads and agriculture, Hamilton became the focal point of the transport of produce into and out of the district.  By 1832 there were sixty persons living in the settlement and surrounding landholders successfully petitioned for a police establishment as protection from marauding bushrangers and a spate of robberies.
By 1835 the district population had zoomed to 779, including 309 convicts and by 1837 the Police establishment had eleven petty constables and a flagellator (for whipping punishment).  With cheap convict labour it was during this period that many of the town’s buildings (which still stand today) and bridges were constructed.
By 1844 Hamilton was a bustling town, with two breweries, six or seven Inns, a blacksmith, stone quarries, mills, three agricultural implement makers and a large convict probation station; it held its own Races and Hunts, indeed development was so promising that the town was marked out as a major country town, in the style of an English town at the time, with squares, an esplanade, a Circus and Municipal Reserve.
A drive up onto the Hamilton Plains shows the roads laid out, and the decaying, dry stone walls are a reminder of the failed attempt by the mainly Irish settlers to farm the rich volcanic but dry soils of the plains. Nevertheless, Hamilton remained a bustling country town throughout the remainder of the 19th century, with the population peaking at 400 in 1881 and developments like the Langloh Coal mine to the northwest of the town in the late 1930s ensured its importance as a major rural centre.
Increasing mechanisation and improved road transport effectively put an end to Hamilton’s growth. Whilst sadly these factors led to Hamilton’s decay and ultimate demolition of some notable buildings, many fine examples remain in the streetscape having an ambience redolent of our colonial history.’ 

Hamilton is located on the far side of the hill in the photo below. The water is part of Meadowbank Lake.

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In Chantale’s photo below, the Clyde River is running into Meadowbank Lake. At the top centre of the photo you can see a few houses and these form part of the town of Hamilton.

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Ouse (pronounced ooze) is located approximately 3 kms ‘as the crow flies’ to the east of the Derwent River between Cluny Dam and the north western end of Meadowbank Lake. Tasmania for Everyone claims Ouse is ‘a small rural Central Highlands town on the Lyell Highway, situated on the junction with the Victoria Valley Road and on the banks of the Ouse River. Ouse is the settlement where convicts James Goodwin and Thomas Connolly broke out of the South West Wilderness four weeks after their escape from Sarah Island. Ouse Post Office opened on 1 October 1835.’

In Michelle’s photo below you will need to imagine that Ouse is located over the low hills in the distance away from the Derwent River.

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John Wadsley’s Brighton, Central Highlands, Derwent Valley and Southern Midlands Councils Joint Land Use Planning Initiative – Stage 2 Heritage Management Plan of July 2010 provides additional historical information concerning the building of bridges to enable expansion and ease transport, the significance of convict labour in settling the Valley, and the growth of farming, the development of industries, and the establishment of hydro power generating facilities.

Catherine Nicholson’s Highland Lakes Settlement Strategy of December 2009 offers further information about the history of settlement in the Derwent Valley.

What I notice, in all the histories of the Derwent Valley that I have read, is that attention is seldom given to the Derwent River rather it is focused on the rivers which fed into the Derwent, and also on the central highland lakes.  The search for fertile soil in which to grow wheat and other crops, and for land offering suitable pastures for sheep and cattle, was of paramount importance.

The photo below shows me in Hamilton. Behind me, the Clyde River (which flows into Meadowbank Lake) is located at the bottom of the hill and edges a delightful park which suits picnicking. I am sort of smiling but I was hot and bothered after a delightful day’s walk elsewhere.

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Meadowbank Lake

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Chantale’s photo above shows the north western end (the furthest end from Hobart) of Meadowbank Lake. You can see the trail of Dunrobin Bridge strung across.

Collecting historical information about Meadowbank is not easy, however the information  I have located has added to my store of knowledge.

According to Environmental Flows for the Lower Derwent River Final Report to DPIWE February 2002 Freshwater Systems, Meadowbank Dam is located approximately 107km upstream of the river mouth.  This report divides the lower Derwent into ‘two major sections: 1. The lower River Derwent – the freshwater river between Meadowbank Dam and New Norfolk; and 2. The upper Derwent estuary – the estuary between New Norfolk (in the vicinity of the upstream tidal limit) and Bridgewater.’

A brochure providing information about access to Meadowbank Lake for anglers includes details about Recreational Fishery Management (Meadowbank Lake is managed by the Inland Fisheries Service as a Family Fishery and is open to angling all year round. Regular stocking with brown trout, rainbow trout and trophy sized Atlantic salmon maintains the quality of the angling.); Native Fish Management (The short-finned eel (Anguilla Australis) is stocked upstream of the dam wall. The blackfish (Gadopsis marmoratus), which is native to northern Tasmanian rivers, has been introduced into the Derwent system and may be encountered in the lake.); and Pest Fish Management (Meadowbank Lake has populations of the pest fish species, redfin perch (Perca fluviatilis) and tench (Tinca tinca). If either of these species are caught, anglers are asked to humanely kill the captured fish and dispose of appropriately.)

Discover Tasmania provides information which encourages access to and usage of the Lake and its shores.

Wikipedia gives background information about the Power Station.

The September 2013 LAKE MEADOWBANK PLANNING PROJECT BACKGROUND REPORT  prepared for the Central Highlands Council in partnership with Hydro Tasmania and the Department of Economic Development, Tourism and the Arts includes panoramic photographs of the Lake and explanations of many of its aspects.

Hydro Tasmania provides information about Lake- side facilities and also about changing water levels.

A little history associated with Meadowbank Farm since the 1970s can be read at this site.

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Perched between treed hills sits Meadow Bank dam, roughly 15 kms downstream from Meadowbank Lake’s far western end.   Chantale’s photo shows the start of that water catchment behind the dam wall and the Meadowbank Power Station nestled at its feet.

The inspirers

Congratulations to all the bloggers who celebrate the wonders of our world.  I hope those listed below may inspire my blog followers to be excited by the opportunities to see beautiful landscapes whether close to home or thousands of miles away.

In particular, I am inspired by all those who present Tasmania with glorious photographs and introductions to the geographical nooks and crannies that walkers, cyclists, rowers, kayakers, skiers, sailors and drivers find.  It has been my privilege this year to discover new sites, whose owners love what they find and then share it with the world.  Amongst these, you can find informative and stunningly beautiful photos of Tasmania’s Derwent River.

Here are some of my favourite blogs.

  • Showcasing Tasmania is No Visible Means
  • Traverse our life highlights more Tasmanian beauties by new arrivals to this State
  • This Amazing Planet presents photographs Tasmania, mainland Australia and more broadly overseas
  • The blog, Tasmanian Beaches is being written by a person who plans to find every Tasmanian beach by walking, cycling, sailing or kayaking.
  • For mainland Australia vistas, I love those posted by Solo Hiker. From Home to Roam
  • Life:Kitt shows me colourful photos of cities on mainland Australia
  • The couple of guys who write Everyday Adventures transport me to places in Australia and around the world, give me a new perspective on the familiar and encourage me to seek out more of the unfamiliar.

In addition, the photographs and written content of many overseas bloggers uplift me.  Some examples:

A few bloggers and I have developed a wonderful mutual adoration society because we enjoy what each of us shows in our blogs.  In particular, I love the blogs of

Perhaps you have found blogsites that inspire you. If you think they may interest me or other bloggers then please add the details in a comment to this posting.

MONA edged on the Derwent continues to surprise

I have written many posts featuring MONA (Museum of New and Old Art) – because the building and surrounds are stunningly beautiful and the museum contents and activity options provide a unique experience.  I am not surprised when Lonely Planet approves a visit and hundreds of thousands of tourists vote with their feet and enjoy a day soaking in all that MONA has to offer.

Now new plans have been drawn up to expand and develop this Tasmanian icon.  A recent Mercury newspaper provides photos and information.

Once again the museum environment will focus our attention on the glorious Derwent River as the building extensions reshape our vision of that part of the Derwent River’s edge.  Congratulations to all involved.

Fields of Dreams

Under the subheading of Horns of Plenty in a local newspaper article, I read about the farmer of the Highland Cattle which I photographed during my walk from New Norfolk to Bushy Park.  By reading the article, I learnt how enterprising Bev Lynd has been, and how useful these cattle are to control the inroads of overwhelming vegetation.  I thought you might be interested in this information.

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My original post can be read at Woolly Long Horned Cattle.

Getting perspective

I discovered the following graphic on the Australian Native T-Shirts website.

For readers who do not know Australia well, note Hobart is located at the southern end of the island state of Tasmania at the bottom of the country.  Slightly east of Hobart is where the Derwent River flows out into the sea.  The source of the Derwent River is located north west of Hobart roughly in the centre of Tasmania.

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A comparison map showing Australia and the United States of America is located at the site ‘On Walkabout’.

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Finally, I found a most amusing map with multiple overlays of Australia across the world.

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Seeing such images certainly helps me to understand the scale of our nations.

Gretna to Lake Repulse Dam – an aerial perspective: 3 of 3

The Cluny Dam holds back the water of Cluny Lagoon, and pumps it through the Cluny Power Station.  At the western end of the Lagoon the wall of the Lake Repulse Dam rears high.

Between Cluny Dam and Power Station and Lake Repulse Dam, Michelle saw:

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Between Cluny Dam and Power Station and Lake Repulse Dam, Chantale saw:

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Between Cluny Dam and Power Station and Lake Repulse Dam, I saw:

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When walking along the edge of the Derwent River, I am not so conscious of the constant winding of the river around the hilly landscape as when I look at the photos in this and the last two blog posts.  The beauty of this snaking quality is that as I take each step, new vistas become visible.

Gretna to Lake Repulse Dam – an aerial perspective: 2 of 3

Meadowbank Lake, through which the Derwent River runs, is an expanse measuring approximately 15 kms in length. A few kms of Derwent River flow between the Lake’s western end and Cluny Dam.  Between Meadowbank Dam and Cluny Dam, Michelle saw:

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 Between Meadowbank Dam and Cluny Dam and Power Station, Chantale saw:

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Between Meadowbank Dam and Cluny Dam and Power Station, I saw:

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Gretna to Lake Repulse Dam – an aerial perspective: 1of 3

I have felt bereft at the constraint of not being able to provide details of where I have walked nor present photographs of grand scenery of the Derwent River and its surrounds.  Then I remembered the flight I took from the mouth to the source and return.  I realised I could use a selection of the photos that my two companions and I took during the flight. This series of postings will show you aerial shots covering the area between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam.  I hope readers will be as thrilled as I am to see the rich expanses of our land by the River and then to be excited by that blue ribbon that winds through that landscape.

Sitting astride the Lyell Highway, Gretna is the tiny town at one end (the closest end to Hobart) of this Gretna to Lake Repulse Dam distance. Approximately 52 kms of Derwent River stretches between these two points and to walk it requires covering considerably more kms.

Between Gretna and Meadowbank Dam and Power Station, Michelle saw:

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Between Gretna and Meadowbank Dam and Power Station, Chantale saw:

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Between Gretna and Meadowbank Dam and Power Station, I saw:

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My camping stove

 

I like to travel light so I was relieved to discover the Kathmandu product, the Backpacker Titanium Stove.

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More information can be read at this site. Unfortunately, I purchased my stove at the top of the market – should I have waited for the sales?  No – I have no regrets. Already the stove has been used a few times and I love it. So tiny and compact, it weighs under 50gms and a mere 75gms when folded into its case. While its fold out arms appear delicate, they comfortably and strongly support my billy heavy with water and rehydrating food.

The burner screws easily onto a 230gm butane/propane mix gas canister.

Wet Notes

Science offers us treats at every corner or, if not treats, then convenience.

One of my inland Derwent River chauffeurs, Andrew, alerted me to Wet Notes.  When I bemoaned the difficulty of making written notes on paper notebooks in rain, I discovered Wet Notes was the answer.

Wet Notes

These pocket sized spiral bound waterproof notebooks, containing both lined and unlined pages are produced by The Royal Yachting Association in the United Kingdom; refer to their catalogue on their website . The lightweight books are small enough for notes, but not large enough if you wish to write a novel while walking in the wilderness.

In Hobart Tasmania, the notebooks can be purchased at The Tasmanian Map Centre in Elizabeth St.

I believe other varieties are published by other organisations.

Walking between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam – 3 of 3

Tracks

Meandering at the edges of paddocks and sometimes across them, the deeply engrained cow and sheep trails were my usual pathways.  When I was not following these, I opted to walk on vehicular tracks. At all times, I deliberately set out to leave no trace of my passing.

Even when I climb fences, I make an extra effort to restore any reshaping to the original configuration. The last thing I want is for anyone to see that a fence has been climbed and believe this is a regular ‘pathway’.  When fences become distorted, they start the journey to break down and, with valuable livestock to be managed, no farmer wants to be worrying about maintaining fences when the deterioration is not time-related.

The Derwent River

The speed of the river flowing downstream always surprises me.  The power of that water, the changing colours of that deep mass, the scale of the River, and the variations in the unique landscapes on the edge impress me strongly. Time and again.

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Where the Derwent passes through Cluny Lagoon and Meadowbank Lake, the wider expanses of water gleam.

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Walking between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam – 2 of 3

Fences and gates

Avid readers of this blog know that locked and impassable gates, and barbed wire and electric fences have stymied my progress in recent walks. As I expected, these exist not only on the perimeters of properties but also throughout.

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Therefore, my recent walks involved a great deal of walking away from the River in search of a way to continue; looking for a way to access the next paddock. I always hope for uninterrupted access to the river edge, but experience shows that hill climbing must be part of the process.  This means a simple 5 km section of the River might take 8 km of walking.  Being forever positive, I am glad for the expansive views of the River when I am up high.  But I am not in love with clambering up hills. Despite the deviations, I negotiated dozens of fences/gates.

The land

Farmers tell me that normally the land dries out in around six weeks’ time. However this year, the non-irrigated paddocks are parched.  The ‘soil’ of some land is sand and rock making me wonder whether it has been so for millennia or is only now tending towards a desert.  In other places, large fissures have cracked open the ground.

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Elsewhere, I saw evidence of large bushfires that probably rushed through the bush three or so years ago. New growth surrounded blackened trunks.

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Negotiating paddocks with livestock

Sheep and cattle wander through large paddocks on either side of the River in much of this area.

I do my best not to enter a paddock with livestock and always try to find alternative routes.  The result is grand deviations from the ‘straight line’ of walking the Derwent.

Cattle are curious or expect food and with their big bodies swaying they tend to walk towards you. Then at a point when I begin to feel most uncomfortable, skittishly they run off.  On the other hand, sheep stand and stare until alarmed. Then they run off, bleating madly.

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I don’t believe it is useful to raise either their or my stress levels.  At this time of the year when lots of mothers and their calves or lambs abound, the last thing I want to do is stress these creatures.

Occasionally, I have shared a paddock with either cattle or sheep. When in a paddock with the animals, I have done my best to walk in such a way that they move slowly away rather than charging off manically.  However, when I saw rams staring at me from under their sharp curly horns, I saw no point in confrontation, and took an alternative route – which in this particular circumstance required me to descend a very very steep hill, knowing I would have to climb back up further along. And I don’t like hills.

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Crops

Commercial and feed crops cover some of the land. I am not a farmer but I think the following photo shows wheat. Can anyone advise me?

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I feel sure this is barley below but am I correct?

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And I know the photo below shows oats.  I once had bales of oat straw brought to mulch my garden. Ever since, wild oats have sprouted and I have come to love their lacy heads.

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I have no idea what I was looking at when I came across this irrigated crop – can anyone identify the vegetation below?

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Walking between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam – 1 of 3

I no longer believe that walking the Derwent River from the mouth to the source is possible as a normal public option. The reasons why others should not follow in my footsteps and expect to walk the length of the River include:

  1. Private landowners will not grant access permission to cross their land for a range of very sound reasons.
  2. There are no public pathways, roads or tracks near most of the River.
  3. Fences and gates make forward progress difficult or impossible.

Let me explain by focusing on the situation in one inland section.

The Derwent River winds around mostly cleared hills between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam, and on two occasions its travel is impeded:  by the Meadowbank and Cluny Dams. The Derwent between these two locations measures approximately 52 kms.

As a result of privileged access and after a series of recent walks, I have covered the majority of these kilometres, sometimes walking on one side of the River and sometimes on the other.  I expect to finish this section by filling in the few small ‘gaps’ in the near future.  Once the 52 kms are completed then I will add the details into my blog under USEFUL ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. Weather (not snowing, raining, excessively windy or hot – I’m not fussy!) and the availability of chauffeurs will influence when and where I walk in the future.

Some of the many landowners along the way have granted me permission to walk on their land with the proviso that specific details which allow identification of them and their properties will not be provided.  I understand the reasons for their positions and will not share the information. Unfortunately, so many of my glorious panoramic photos of the Derwent River feature rapids or other indicators such as hills, dramatic cliffs and distant properties which show the side of the River on which I walked. As such, these would help locate the properties on which I walked.  Therefore, for the first time, I am disappointed to include only a couple of River shots in my blog posts.

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Many blog followers have enjoyed the details of what I see and experience in each walk.  Without providing identifying information, I will do my best to present some of the ‘flavour’ of the River between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam in the next couple of blog posts.

Thanks to blog follower Jeanette, I was chauffeured to some starting points and collected from destinations in the section between Gretna and Lake Repulse Dam.  In addition, she walked with me on one occasion. At the time we tried out hand-me-down walking poles (my doctor says they will support my knees) but since they were no longer collapsible, we soon discarded them.  For blog followers wondering how my knees are holding up – very well, thank you.  Now that I wrap and support them, walking has become so much easier.

Tackling the Derwent in the Meadowbank Lake region

Meadowbank Lake, which backs up behind Meadowbank Dam and its Power Station, is approximately 15 kms long. Downstream, the Derwent River snakes its way through the landscape for about 23 kms until it passes Gretna and heads on towards the sea.  Upstream, after approximately 9 to 10 kms, the Derwent River finishes at Cluny Dam.  The Cluny Lagoon which extends to Lake Repulse Dam extends a further 4 kms.

To walk the Derwent between Lake Repulse Dam and Gretna is not straightforward because some private property owners cannot afford to let strangers on their property for insurance reasons, or their granted permission is a one off special case for me.  As a result, I have walked and will walk sometimes on the western and sometimes on the eastern side of the River and Lake, but I will not be providing a map and location details in my blog.  In this way I will protect the privacy of landowners, and respect the privilege their permission to access their property has given me.

I expect to tackle parts of the area on a total of 6 or 7 separate days. On each of these walks there will be a considerable amount of retracing of steps and walking away from the river/lake in order to reach roads where friends can collect me. For most of this area, public transport will either be absent or a great distance away.  Only the walk between Cluny and Lake Repulse Dams offers a reasonable amount of public access.

To date, I have walked a few sections, but I am not sure how to write up this Meadowbank area considering the confidentiality and privacy agreements I have made.  Once I have started moving west of Lake Repulse Dam and all the walks in the Meadowbank area are complete, then I will create one or more blogs that introduce at least some of the wonders of that environment.