Author Archives: Tasmanian traveller

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About Tasmanian traveller

Through travel, I have experienced the eccentricities of people and their environments around the world. At the same time, I love where I live. So, for people who cannot travel to discover the wonders of my home town, this blog is an attempt to introduce its exoticness. My goal was to walk along both sides of Hobart's Derwent River from the mouth to New Norfolk, and to walk on one or alternating sides of the River between New Norfolk and the source of the River at the southern end of Lake St Clair. The walk was undertaken in stages around my other commitments of my life. Almost all stages of the walk connected with Tasmanian public transport - my intentions was to inspire people, who do not have access to a vehicle, to feel they can replicate the walks. This blog reports on each stage in the hope it will encourage people to either follow in my steps or to create their own walking project where-ever they live. Please note: The blog background and headliner image of 'Hobart from Mt Wellington' is the work of Tourism Tasmania and Garry Moore. It is a free image with unrestricted copyright and available from http://www.tassietrade.com.au/visual_library

Unpredictable water levels

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This sign is located near Rayners Corner beside Glenora Road on route to Bushy Park.

Years ago a friend and I drove up along the Lyell Highway, and then took a track down to the river somewhere between New Norfolk and Gretna.

We walked across a gravel bed to a rocky scrubby clump edging the water.  For a couple of hours we sat on the river side with our feet swinging above the glossy glassy black racing water of the Derwent River, lulled by the sun. I remember the clear reflections of the dense vegetation on the other side of the river. It was a joy to see fish rising to grab an insect that had been flitting near the water surface. Clouds began to pile up in the distance and around that time I looked down and realised the water was nearly touching my feet. The river’s water level was rising. We clambered back to the other side of this outcrop and discovered, to our horror, a swirling and dramatic pour of water separated us from the river bank. In recent blog postings I have mentioned the speed with which the Derwent River travels towards the sea. That day was my first experience of its dangerous fast moving flows.

The river was rising as we watched. We were stranded on an island and we didn’t know how much water had been released upstream. This meant we didn’t know whether the island would become submerged. Within seconds we knew we had to try our luck and get back to land.

Quickly we cast our eyes around for a couple of suitable branches that could act as walking sticks, as balancing poles, so we could cross the raging torrent.  Each of us started the crossing with a balancing stick. I remember stepping into that cold water and finding how uneven the ground was. It was not a simple gravel bed rather I was trying to walk on irregular sized rocks that rolled when I was pushed onto them by the force of the water. I remember that it was important to tread slowly and to lean my body at an angle towards upstream to counteract the pressure to send me downstream.

When I started the crossing the water level was at the top of my thighs. The distance wasn’t far but the water reached around my waist and splashed higher as I approached the safety of the river bank.  Once out of the water, we felt exhilarated.  But we both knew the danger we had been in.  And similar signs to the one in the photograph above were not around.  Situations like this remind me of the powerful importance of local knowledge.

The quest for water to drink

The road narrowed. The road verges reduced in width. The traffic sped past. Vegetation grew rampantly between the road and the Derwent River. The river poured towards the sea. And I walked, occasionally sipping, and wondered what I would see over each new crest or around each corner.  Would I find accessible water?

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A cluster of large rocks and a pull-off area for vehicles alerted me to a new chance to reach water.

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Rayners Corner

At the bottom of the incline, a rocky track was extended into the River with a few rocks – most suitable to fish from. And most suitable from which to fill up a water bottle! This location was on the opposite side of the river from a mapped point known as Rayners Corner (although not showing on Google Maps).

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I sat for a while and soaked in the clean atmosphere.  Looking back down the river I watched the hard glassy flows of the Derwent.

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Then I made a short video scanning the environment.

Marvellous place. Marvellous water.

A Swallows Nest

We have a saying, ‘one swallow does not a summer make’ indicating many of these birds need to be spotted before any declaration can be made that the seasons have changed to true summer.  So it is not surprising that I saw no sign of a swallow when I walked past the property titled Swallows Nest – I knew it was cool spring and so did those clever birds which must have been off somewhere much warmer at this time of year.  We have 6 swallows and martins that spend time in Tasmania, and depending on which is being considered, the birds may have migrated to Queensland, Indonesia or even to the Arctic Circle for our winters.

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The property, Swallows Nest on the road to Bushy Park, seems to offer accommodation for people (but where were the swallows’ nests?) however the property was locked up and looked peopleless. When I read that an old Hop Kiln Guest House was ahead, I imagined seeing a fascinating historic building and therefore I looked forward to discovering it.

The renovated building below apparently first started its life as a Hop Kiln.

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More information is located here.

Not far below, the Derwent River poured by.

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Woolly long horned cattle

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I have never seen cattle with these characteristics before. They were large, curious and looked unkempt on account of their shaggy coat. But so strong and healthy.

I suspected they might be some sort of Scottish highland breed. The example photographed on this site seems to be similar to what I saw.  Then I discovered the existence of a Tasmanian Highlanders Breed Association. Their website declares ‘Highland Cattle thrive in Tasmania’s changeable climate, they love the cold winters and lose their long woolly coats to enjoy out hot summer.

Frog Palace

First I noticed the pink painted house and could see what seemed to be a stunning purple flowering jacaranda over the fence.

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Then I saw the sign.

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After a few more footsteps, I heard frogs happily croaking in a tiny stream of water which was heading downhill towards the Derwent.

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In the past this property has been subject to flooding from rising river waters. Not much further along the road was a measurement stick showing the different meter levels that the river has been known to rise in extreme circumstances. The vertical white line on the left of the photograph below is the measurement tool – its height (well above my head) indicates the inundation that this area can expect occasionally.

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On the road and from the road

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Refer to the photos below – I loved the open rainwater tanks, on their side in the shed, which now houses stacks of wood. And I loved the contrast between solar power technology, mechanical equipment and a small wooden house with its own cottage garden.

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These cows ran away from me.  My explanation is that the pack on my back makes me looked like a deformed and rare human and, as such, I am to be much feared.

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Meanwhile the Derwent River raced along.

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The water issue

Unfortunately, the Derwent River’s water level was low and its unscramblable muddy banks prevented me filling up my water containers for most of my walk.  By this stage of the walk – mid morning on day 2 – my water supply was a big worry.

Contrary to my expectations of being able to collect water along the route, throughout Day 1 I found it impossible to get to the river water safely and be able to clamber back up slippery thorny banks.  Originally, I had left home with two plastic bladders each containing one litre.  When I reached the property Cluan on Day one, having quickly decided I could refill a bladder at the river’s edge I drank the remains of one bladder.  Regrettably, on closer inspection at the river edge I could not get down to the water.  This meant I needed to refill somewhere else along the way. But, as you know from earlier postings, I was never next to the river again on Day one, spent lots of time walking on the disused railway line, and eventually pitched camp next to the line.  That night I needed a reasonable amount of water to rehydrate and cook my evening meal.   From then until morning I cautiously sipped the remaining water.

First thing next morning on Day 2, instead of boiling water for a much looked for cup of tea or to make porridge, I ate a fruit bar for breakfast, and took a sip of water. Then, after packing up, I started walking.  Normally I drink a lot of water each day, and I know how important it is to keep hydrated  particularly when you are moving.  Water was everywhere but not a drop to drink – except for the remaining mouthfuls from my water bladder. I knew the water rationing had to continue. I was glad the air temperature was cool so that I wasn’t losing too much in perspiration.  However, I wasn’t to know that I would need to walk considerably further before I had a modicum of success in terms of water gathering.

Near the edge of the Derwent River again

Having farewelled the walking cyclist, I spotted a style built giving anglers access over a fence and at the same time I appreciated a grand curve in the Derwent River down below.

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The views of the river, the paddocks and the sheep were magnificent.

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As usual, continual direct access to the river was impossible.  This time, the very steep and slippery river banks were the greatest impediment.

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I continued along Glenora Road until I was able to follow a vehicular track to the water.  On the river edge, a large irrigation pump took pride of place. The water was clear. The sun sparkled across the surface. But access to the water was denied me because a steep slippery mudbank, which I did not believe I could climb back up if I slipped down, separated me from that elusive fluid.

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Heading westwards

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Back on Glenora Road, I loved the landscape in every direction. I am curious- have any city people slotted a green landscape view as background on their computers? When I open my computer and see green vistas it lifts my spirits particularly when I look out of my house window at bricks and mortar everywhere.

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Before long I was passing the expanses of Kinvarra Estate wines. My photos are quite tame compared to those taken by Alphaluma and presented on their website. His are sweeping and dramatic.

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A kilometre or so later I was surprised to see a lycra-clad man walking uphill around a corner and pushing his bicycle towards me.

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He looked exhausted and so I called out a friendly ‘hello’ and asked him where he had come from so early in the day.  ‘Bushy Park’, he replied.  Then he explained that for the past 12 days he had been on the comparatively new Tasmania Trail which extends from the north-west coast to the south-east margins of Tasmania. In addition, he offered that 13 days ago he hadn’t ridden a bike for years, had bought the new bike that day, then started out immediately. Now he was eager to get home and was headed for Hobart where he would finish his trek and family would pick him up.  This man, who looked like someone’s father, didn’t have the time or strength to continue to Dover much further south but I congratulated him on his achievement.  Whatever means of transport you take through central Tasmania, the challenges are great and he had overcome much to be close to his goal.  So I thought about my sore feet after only one day’s walking, and worked hard to dismiss any negative thoughts.

Leaving Ivanhoe’s cows behind

Day 2 and the vista looked splendid.  Despite my fingers seeming to freeze as I released the tent and repacked my backpack, the sun shone and the landscape sparkled after the evening’s shower of rain – any dust in the air was long gone.

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I hadn’t been walking for long when I could see the next railway bridge down the line. This time the bridge was taking a long haul over the Derwent River.  Again, I wasn’t prepared to play with my life and try to cross it. Instead, I detoured after finding a gate with an easy slip fastener and walked up a soft vehicle track. I saw rich green paddocks everywhere.

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Before long I had walked over the hilltop and could see a couple of houses.

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And then I was following a curving track across the property expecting eventually to return to Glenora Road.

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Not far along, I passed a gigantic pivot irrigation structure.

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The morning was truly marvellous.  The location was magnificent.

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I felt all the happier when a couple of the property owners drove past and waved cheerily. At the time I thought it strange they didn’t stop to talk which is something country people normally do (and, after all, I was on their private land), but when I reached the road I realised they had been having a laugh at my expense.  The gate was padlocked and unclimbable. One fence was electrified and the other barbed.  Fortunately, I was able to make my own way around this obstacle and get to the main road. It was then I could see I had been on the property named Ivanhoe.

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You can see my red gloves on top of the stone fence; by the time I was on the outside of Ivanhoe, I had warmed up and no longer needed them.

The Ivanhoe property is for sale if this interests you and you have over $3.6 million in loose change hanging around.

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I think I can, I think I can

As I left Cluan and continued on, I recalled the child’s story of The Little Engine that Could. I was the little train on the old rotting tracks. Walking on the sleepers. Walking between the sleepers. That was my routine for the rest of the day.  I thought I could keep going. I know I can I know I can I know I can – was the regular thought that powered me over the irregular surfaces which required total vigilance to prevent a twisted or broken ankle.

In the photos below, the Derwent River is located over the paddocks near the row of trees, and inaccessible.

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Gradually, as the line took me higher and higher, my views of the Derwent River were clearer.

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The sun came out and I watched worried cows racing away from me. Beautiful healthy black cattle in contrast to lush lime-green grass.

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With a rainstorm approaching, finding a suitable camping spot suddenly became very important.

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Obviously my dream to camp near the river could not happen. So I settled near a couple of wattle trees, next to the railway line across from the paddock with the cows.  Surprisingly, the ground was soft dust. I cannot explain in this wet green landscape why the soil where I was pitching my tent would be almost bone dry but I am grateful because the tent pegs slipped in easily and strangely stayed firm.  Magic in the Derwent Valley.

As I opened my backpack, drops of rain were being winded my way with force. Blog followers may remember my tent weighs only a few grams over 1 kilogram.  Trust me; its lightness was not a benefit in that atmosphere. Firstly, I laid the tent out and weighted it to the ground. The next process was to unfold the structural rods and insert them into the tent to create the shape.  But the wind twisted and threw me and the rods at all angles. The cows talked. I said some choice words.

Exasperated and flustered the pieces eventually fitted and stayed together. I withdrew the fly from its sack and out it flew like a large lime green cape.  Into the wattle trees.  Out of the wattle trees. Attached to the tent at one corner. Over me. Off me. Start again. Onto the railway line. More choice words from all the animals. Once the fly was attached to two points, while it was a scramble to attach it at the third point, I was winning. And then the tent and fly were up, taut, holding their own against the wind.  No wine to celebrate. Now there was an oversight!

Thanks to the tent vestibule I was able to cook my dinner with wind protection. Then I settled back, read a little, before dozing and sleeping all night.  Loved it when a toilet break was required under the stars. I smiled to see the velvety black silhouettes of the cows lined up along the fence line, no longer afraid of me.  It was quite wonderful being out in the fresh clean country air and I was immensely pleased that I had persevered through the day and arrived at this magical spot.

Cluan

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Built around 1837 but originally named Charlie’s Hope, Cluan homestead presides over more than two and a half thousand hectares of farmland. Historical information involving new settlers, convicts and smuggling can be read here.

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This property is on the market – see this website and a second website. Put in your expression of interest if you want to live in this beautiful rural setting. The promotional material indicates a private beach on the Derwent River is part of the package. I found the river level was low down on a slippery muddy bank past tall Pampas grass and therefore the river water was inaccessible.  I am not sure where the beach was.

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Plentiful

The views are magnificent around the area centred on the township of Plenty in the Derwent Valley, but at this time of the year the deciduous trees are lacking foliage and there is a grey-greening colour across the landscape. The visuals are comparatively dull.

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Reid’s cherry orchards are the backbone of Plenty. Finally I walked around their most western cleared paddocks.

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I took a last look at the river before heading towards ‘civilisation’, the railway line and the main road.

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Sighted near a private home, I thought the densely flowering Magnolia tree, pictured below, was a rich sensual delight.

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When I reached the railway line over the tiny Plenty River, I looked down and listened to the burbling water flowing into the Derwent River.

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The railway line sleepers over the Plenty River were rotten and impossible to walk over safely, so I exited to the main road, crossed the road bridge and then, through the row of trees on the right in the following photo, I entered a new paddock covered in fruit trees.

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I circled an orchard until I could clamber over a broken barbed wire fence that was squeezed between two poplars. Alas – my new jacket suffered a tear in the process.  Beyond was the trainline.

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Around the corner of the railway line as I walked westwards into the distance, I left Plenty.  The day was overcast and gloomy, and I was walking with a heavy heart because access to the river was impossible.

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Meditation and peacefulness

I find that listening and looking from within the natural environment revives my soul and lifts my spirits. Partly this comes from the rhythm of taking each step, the regular intake and exhaling of breath, and then the quality of the fresh air touching all parts of me.

Here are a couple of small videos I made when skirting around Reids Fruits property.  These offer the sounds that most relax me.

https://vimeo.com/140865664   and https://vimeo.com/140869887

The photographs below show a selection of river views taken as I continued walking around the edge of the Reids Fruits property.

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I kept walking and  soon found the railway line was fenced off close by. As I looked back over the route I had taken, unfamiliar parts of Mount Wellington could be spotted on the horizon.

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While I understand the need for fences, if they were taken away then this place on the river bank near Plenty Tasmania would be truly idyllic.

Culinary beauty

Recently, when I read Livia Day’s A Trifle Dead, I discovered a sub-genre of novels previously unknown to me: culinary crime. Across our planet, a move from selfies to photographing what you eat is trending.  And so many of us think about food all the time and love to see colour on our plates. As a result, I am inspired to take a break from the chronological postings about my last walk and introduce a food which barely has a connection with my walk.

An earlier blog post showed me passing the property Linden.  Over the Derwent River from Linden is the area known as Hayes, made memorable because until 2012 it housed a minimum security farm prison. I was surprised when I strolled through the Bathurst Street Farmers Market recently. A table full of beautiful red cabbage heads lay before me.  When I chatted to the growers, I learned these cabbages were grown on their property which borders the Derwent at Hayes.

Back home, I chopped a salad and prepared to cook a small salmon steak.  Organically grown, delicious, clean and fresh.

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